Categories: Electrician Secrets, Automata and RCD
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What to do if an RCD or a difavtomat works when you connect a washing machine

 

In accordance with current technical standards, the wiring in the apartment must be three-wire, and the outlet networks must be equipped with differential protection. There is no need to once again tell that all this is achievable is far from always. therefore RCD and differential circuit breakers in apartment distribution boards so far can be seen infrequently - mainly for connecting a washing machine, which is usually located in the bathroom.

The fact is that according to the rules of the PUE, protection against leakage currents for power consumers in the bathroom is mandatory. AND, installing a washing machine in the bathroom, experts often put in a shield a separate differential protection device for its connection.

However, a situation where RCD or difavtomat, to which the washing machine is connected, starts to constantly work and, what is called "spoil the nerves."

RCD

Let's try to deal with possible causes of differential protection after connecting the washing machine, as well as determine the actions and measures by which you can resolve the situation.

1. The first thought that comes to mind in a similar situation is wrong connection. This primarily concerns the differential protection apparatus. It is hardly possible to make a mistake when connecting the cable cores in the socket: for the “differential” to operate, it would be necessary to connect together the zero working and protective conductor (N and PE). For a two-wire line, the connection of the working neutral conductor and the housing of the washing machine is likely (an attempt to make an unapproved grounding) All this can cause the RCD to trigger, but such incidents are rare, and you should not devote much time to describing them.

More often, you have to deal with the wrong connection of an RCD or a difavtomat. The most typical case is when the phase is “passed” through the apparatus, and the operating zero is duplicated or simply taken directly from the common zero bus. The reason is ignorance of the principle of operation of the RCD, according to which all the current of the zero working and phase conductors must pass through the internal circuit of the device.

If part of the current passes through the common zero bus, bypassing the differential protection device, then the RCD will perceive this as a leak and turn off the power. Therefore, when connecting a differential protection device, it is necessary to strictly follow the labeling of the terminal clamps and follow it. The main requirement is that the zero wire N going to the washing machine must be connected directly to the appliance, there should not be any additional working “zeros”.



2. Malfunction of the RCD itself also should not be ruled out. To check, disconnect all the outgoing wires, apply voltage to the included RCD (or difavtomat) and press the "test" button. The device should turn off only when the button is pressed and nothing else. If the differential protection device is found to be faulty, it is easier to replace than to repair.

3. In the case when the device turned out to be serviceable, we critically evaluate condition of the washing machine itself. If the washing machine is new, then suspicions of it are eliminated immediately. Anything is possible for an old washing machine: damage to the internal wiring, deterioration of the insulation of the windings of the electric motor, damage to the housings of internal appliances and devices.

To check for internal leakage in the washing machine itself, you can use a multimeter. We check the resistance between each plug electrode of the plug and the body of the machine at a limit of 20 kilo-ohms.For a differential protection rating of 30 milliamps to trip, the resistance must be 7.3 kilo-ohms or less. If the resistance exceeds this figure, then it is not a washing machine.

An exception, of course, are those cases when the differential protection is triggered, for example, when the electric motor is turned on, the intake valve is opened, and the drain pump is turned on. At the same time, measuring the insulation resistance of a machine that is not included in the network is pointless. But this is not necessary: ​​there is no doubt already, and the circle of troubleshooting is narrowed to the element of the washing machine, when turned on, the problem is manifested.

It is better to entrust a faulty washing machine to specialists, since it is almost hopeless to look for a leak on your own.


4. If, however, the washing machine is working, then only one version remains: wiring failure. Moreover, a completely new wiring may also be malfunctioning. A self-tapping screw stuck in a working zero core hidden under the sheathing, moisture penetrating into the branch box, damaged by a knife during stripping and tightly laid wires in the shield and the same boxes - these are malfunctions that can occur regardless of the age of insulation.

It is quite difficult to find and fix such malfunctions. If we are talking about open wiring, then it must be revised throughout. It is also advisable to open the junction boxes and check if the neutral working conductor closes to extraneous current-carrying parts.

For hidden wiring, all this is even more complicated. In practice, it is possible to find only damage associated with the complete breakage of one of the cable cores. Locking the working “zero” on nails, screws and other fasteners in the wall can only be found the method of many long trials and errors.

If you do not see a clear prospect for such work, then it will be easier to replace the cable line. Moreover, the triggering of differential protection can be associated not only with damage to the cable, but also with the elementary aging of its insulation. This is true for old aluminum wiring. For the new wiring, it is possible that the cable used during installation was counterfeit, and its insulation allows leakage, even before it has worn out.

Alexander Molokov

See also at i.electricianexp.com:

  • How to make the washing machine not shock
  • How to connect the washing machine to the mains
  • Connection of an electric stove and a washing machine in the TN-C system
  • How to choose a differential machine
  • Grounding and grounding - what is the difference?

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thank you. Your article helped me a lot!

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Sidorov | [quote]

     
     

    On older typewriters, the engine collector can cause a large leak - when the brushes are worn, graphite dust forms a conductive coating on the mass of the machine (collector, engine axis, housing). Clean the collector area and replace the brushes if necessary.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: Anatoly | [quote]

     
     

    "For a differential protection of 30 milliamps to operate, the resistance must be 7.3 kilo-ohms or less."

    Mistake An RCD with a differential current of 30 mA should operate with a leakage current of at least 16 mA and not more than 30 mA. And the insulation resistance should not be lower than tens of ohms.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Anatoly, I recommend you not to rush into the comments, but carefully read the proposals you do not like.

    In particular, no error is observed here. This phrase, expressed differently (although it is said quite clearly, chesslovo): "If the insulation resistance drops to 7.3 kOhm, then the leakage current will reach 30 mA, and the RCD will disconnect the line."

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Dif automatic or RCD rarely "mistaken"
    If it works, then everything is not very good. Either installation errors or damage. In any case, this is a signal and you need to work it out for your own safety.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIuiD_mU6i0&feature=plcp
    continuation of the topic ouzo

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks. It is widely believed that RCDs are effective only in 3-wire wiring. And as in old houses, with a relatively normal, without leaks, 2-wire wiring. Will the RCD save? Or he definitely needs land for comparison.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: andy78 | [quote]

     
     

    Sergei, on this issue there was already a rather fierce discussion on the site - RCD in two-wire: to put or not to put? We decided that an RCD should be installed in all cases without exception (both in three- and two-wire systems).

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks. For myself, I also decided. I somehow missed the article, now I'll see.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: pick-cha | [quote]

     
     

    And what to do if in two outlets of the apartment when the washing machine is turned on, the differential machine works, but in others it does not. Replaced one of their "suspicious" outlets, nothing has changed?

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    But what if the housings of the washing machine, system unit, refrigerator (in my opinion) are energized and can be shocked by the power supply device (when there are two capacitors with one foot on the wire and the other on the body)?

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good afternoon! I had the following question: I purchased a new washing machine, plug it into a power outlet - the RCD works, then I turn on the RCD - it does not turn off - the machine works fine. After using the machine, I unplug it from the outlet. Before the next use, I insert the plug into the socket again and the RCD trips again and again everything is as before, i.e. The RCD is triggered only when the plug is first plugged into the outlet. What could be the reason? Statics? Residual capacitor charge?

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: Evgeny | [quote]

     
     

    If an RCD trips when plugged into one outlet, but not into another, then try plugging the plug into the first outlet in an inverted state. I think that in this outlet the phase is on one side (mine on the left), and on the other - on the other (mine on the right). When I turn on the machine, the resistance between one leg of the plug and the body remains high, and between the other and the body it drops to several kilograms. If this leg of the plug corresponds to the phase, then the RCD knocks out, but if this leg corresponds to zero, then the RCD, of course, does not knock out.

    I measured the resistance between the legs of the plug and the body of the machine (third terminal of the plug). With the machine turned off, the resistance between the legs of the plug and the body was very high. When the mode switch was turned on, the resistance between one leg and the case did not change, and the resistance between the case and the other leg at the first moment dropped to 4-5 kOhm, and after a second it rose to 12-20 kOhm. Therefore, the RCD will knock out immediately after turning on the machine, and then the resistance becomes such that the RCD should not be knocked out.
    I treated it by turning the plugs (as described in the previous comment), although I understand that this is a temporary solution, that you still need to call a specialist.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    New wiring, new washing machine. RCD put on the bathroom at 10mA, according to the recommendations. When the washing machine is turned on, protection is triggered. BUT, if it is already connected to the network, then the next time the RCD is turned on, the operation does not occur and the washer works normally. Is it possible that it is necessary to install an RCD of type A, and not an AS, as the most common and cheapest? Or put it all the same at 30mA. Here is a clipping from one article:

    "RCDs are divided into devices of type AC, A and B. AC devices break the circuit in the event of AC leakage if they build up suddenly or smoothly. These RCDs are inexpensive, they are most widely used and are considered acceptable for most operating conditions."

    Type A RCDs operate not only from an alternating current, but also from a pulsating DC current that suddenly rises or rises smoothly.Such devices are more preferable for residential premises, as some household appliances are the source of a constant pulsating current, for example, computers, dimmers, televisions, some washing machines (all where there are semiconductor power supplies). By the way, the instructions to some of these consumers indicate that they should only be connected through an RCD type A.

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: Vasya | [quote]

     
     

    new washing machine. new wiring, worked normally for a year and suddenly began to knock ouzo. I connect the machine to the outlet without an ouzo everything is fine, it works. Tell me what is the reason.

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: Alim | [quote]

     
     

    RCD - residual current circuit breakers. An UZO is a high-speed protective switch that responds to differential current in conductors that supply electricity to the protected electrical installation - this is the "official" definition. In a more understandable language, the device will disconnect the consumer from the mains if there is a leakage of current to the PE (ground) conductor. The machine operates on a short circuit and network overload.

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: Sergey Ovsyanikov | [quote]

     
     

    Any protective conductor in the house, this is zero. It can only be divided up either at substations (TN-S) or in a switchboard at home, when one PEN conductor reaches the house, combining both a protective and a working conductor (TN-C).

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: Vladimir | [quote]

     
     

    The washing machine haier hw50-12866me when turned on by button A instantly triggers a solinoid ubl (without thermocouple) the sunroof opens the car dead indicator part is normal obvious short circuit new ...