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Electrosafe private residential building and cottage. Part 1

 

Electrically safe private house and cottageDear Reader! It is necessary to recognize the fact that in the private residential sector and especially in cottages there is an extremely unfavorable situation in terms of electrical and fire safety. Violations are of a large-scale nature.

Especially depressing is the fact that both professional electricians and electrical engineers themselves sometimes do not understand and do not know certain provisions of the EMP and other regulatory documents. The purpose of this article is to help both electricians and homeowners correctly perform certain tasks.

Electrical Engineer S. Mironov post office


Consider all the dangers that may lie in wait for people and the house from electricity.

1. Direct contact with the human phase.

2. Short circuit (short circuit) between phase and zero.

3. Damage to the insulation of the phase wire with its subsequent closure on the metal casing of the electrical installation (on the HRE - open conductive parts).

4. The appearance at the entrance to the house of increased voltage (up to 380V) as a result of an accident on overhead lines (overhead line).

5. High potential drift from the ground through metal sewage pipes, water and gas supply and other HRC (third-party conductive parts).

6. Direct lightning strike into the house.

7. High potential drift along overhead lines to the house during thunderstorms.

In this paper, we consider the first four cases. In fig. 1 - 8 show 54 possible options for a person to get under voltage, which under certain circumstances can lead to electrical injury. Some of them are essentially the same, but we will not combine them for the sake of clarity.


Fig. 1 - 8 download in the archive from this link - https://i.electricianexp.com/en/elgildom1-8.zip (0, 6 mb)

So, we have a residential building, which, as a rule, is powered from the overhead line and in which there are no third-party conductive parts (HFC), and from electrical appliances - only AB (circuit breaker), a pair of sockets and a lamp. A familiar situation, isn't it? The number of emergency situations in this case will be three. The first of them is when a person touched a phase wire with his hand (see, Fig. 3 No. 18). Possible here fatal electrical injury.



The second emergency situation is when an overvoltage (up to 380v) from the overhead line came to the house as a result of an accident on the line. This will immediately cause the lights to burn out. The glass bulb of the lamp may explode, followed by spraying a red-hot spiral on combustible substances, which can lead to a fire. This will not happen if the bulb is in the protective lampshade. Well, the third case is a short circuit in the wiring. Here the AB should work, which will turn off the house.

What countermeasures can be taken here? In the first case, you with a 95% probability can save RCD (residual current device). True, you can be shocked by this. In the second case - set on input voltage monitoring relaywhich, when exceeding the voltage at the entrance to the house more than 240V, will turn off the power in the house. In the third case, as I wrote, AB will help out (if it is correctly selected).

Move on. Connect to the outlet, for example, a refrigerator. Then emergency No. 15 will be added. But if we, as before, installed an RCD, then we will eliminate this problem. True, at the same time you can be shocked, but with a probability of 95% you will survive.

Move on. Near the refrigerator, within the reach of a person’s hands, you have put some more electrical appliance with open conductive parts (HRE). Then emergency situations No. 1 and 8 are added. If there is an RCD, then you will be shocked by the current, and with a probability of 95% you will remain alive. Do not forget that at any moment up to 380V voltage may appear at the entrance to the house, and if you have not installed an ILV relay, your refrigerator and a nearby electrical appliance may burn out and even ignite, which will lead to a fire in the house.

Move on. Hurray, finally a metal water pipe was brought into your house. That is, now you have in your house HRO (third-party conductive part). This will add to you emergency No. 21 and No. 27 (for example, let it be a washing machine near a water tap).Further, if the phase gets into this HFC, then you will get emergency situations No. 15, 16, 22. In general, the situation as various electrical appliances and the HFC are installed at home can become very complicated, as can be seen from Figures 2-8.

So you came to a well-founded conclusion: why the hell do I need all this? Each time to think - will shake? Kill? Fire? The problem must be solved radically! What choice is there? According to the EMP, make in a residential building power supply system TN –C S or TT. And which one to choose? According to the PUE, if it is not possible to ensure electrical safety in the TN - C –S system, then the TT system should be made.


What ensures the electrical safety of the TN - C - S system?

All protection in the TN - C– S system is based on tripping circuit breaker (AB) due to high short-circuit currents to the PE conductor. Hence the high quality and reliability requirements for PE and PEN conductors, through which communication with the power source is carried out. Now many experts are inclined to believe that if the overhead line from the transformer substation is completed self-supporting insulated wires (SIP), it can be argued that we have a “high-quality” PEN conductor.

This implies the fact that in case of damage to the wiring of the overhead line made by the self-supporting insulated wire, if it breaks, then all conductors, both phase and PEN wires, break at once. If the overhead line is made with single-core wires, then if it is damaged, the probability of breaking only the PEN wire is very high. In this case (a break in the PEN-wire on the line) at the inputs to residential buildings, the appearance of increased voltage (up to 380V) is possible, and the appearance of high-voltage electrical equipment on the HRE under certain circumstances.

That is, the TN - C – S system in this case does not provide the necessary level of electrical safety, and we, according to the EMP, must supply the residential building with the TT system. The differences between the TT system and the TN-C-S system can be seen from Fig. 9.

TT and TN-C systems

Fig. 9. Systems TT and TN-C

In the TT PEN system, the conductor is not divided into two conductors (into PE and N conductors) - in it it is used only as N wires, and the PE conductor is made already in place, by means of a charger (grounding device) near the house and from this the charger is taken PE conductors.

In the TN-C-S PEN system, the conductor is already used as both N and PE conductors, for which it is divided into PE and N wires at the PEN input of the wire into the house. In addition to this, the PEN wire is additionally grounded near the house to the pre-made charger (Re-ground the PEN wires).

So, we left the house on the street and looked at the overhead line from which our house is powered. If the overhead line itself (and not our branch to the input) is made by separate wires - everything, you need to do the TT system. If this is not the case, and the overhead line wiring is made by SIP, then you need to make sure that the SIP extends from the transformer substation to your house (that is, make sure that only the PEN wire is impossible to break from the TP to your house). If an overhead line with separate wires goes farther from the pole from which the entrance to your house was made, then this should not worry you (except if the line is not looped back, you need to make sure that this case is excluded).

So, we were convinced that from TP to your column there is a VL performed by SIP. Then you need to make the TN - C – S system. At the same time, do not forget that if the branch to the input to your house is made with separate wires, then replace them with SIP as well. (This is the best option).


And now let's see all the options in which a person can get an electric shock. These options are shown in fig. 1 - 8. There are 54 in total. Some of them are essentially the same, but for clarity, we will not combine them. How to eliminate them? To do this, according to the EMP, we must perform the BPCS (the basic system for equalizing potentials) according to paragraph 1.7.82. And if necessary - and DSP (additional system for equalizing potentials) according to clause 1.7.83.Along the way, we note that according to the PUE 7.1.88 for the bathroom and shower rooms, the PMP is mandatory.

If you perform a safety control system and a safety control system (that is, install jumpers between open conductive parts (HFC), between the HFC and third-party conductive parts (HFC) and ground the HFC and HRO, then when analyzing emergencies No. 1-17 and No. 19-54 (see Fig. 1 - 8) will be reduced only to step voltage (Uш> 0). The problem with step voltage is solved by performing a “high-quality” grounding device (GD) and equipping it in a “low pedestrian” place. at 30 mA.

Along the way, we note that when lightning strikes the ground, even far from your home through metal pipes of cold water, sewer pipes and gas supply can be drifted into the house of high voltage. Then cases No. 46, 47, 48, 51, 52 are probable. It is possible to get rid of such misfortunes only by installing insulating inserts on their entrance to the house that will prevent lightning from entering the house. But at the same time, all the HFCs that remained inside the house, we still need to connect the conductors to the shield PE bus (that is, ground again).


To summarize some of the results. All that we have done above is that we have fulfilled the requirements of the EMP for the creation of the Basic System for Equalizing Potentials and the Additional System for Equalizing Potentials, that is, we have eliminated almost all emergency situations (using the necessary jumpers, RCDs and ILV). There are problems with touch voltage and step voltage.

Step voltage problems are solved competently. grounding device (charger). Problems with touch voltage are solved by the correct selection and calculation of a circuit breaker (AB). With a correctly selected circuit breaker, the touch voltage lasts a very short time (0.4 sec at 220 V according to the PUE). It is believed that this is permissible under electrical safety conditions.

Clarification is needed at the end of this chapter. What is OSUP and PRSP.


OSUP is the Basic System of Equalization of Potentials. Why is it MANDATORY?

OSUP - this is the main guard of your home from the external environment. Everything metal that comes to your house from the outside carries a potential threat, because through these pieces of iron any current can penetrate the house and cause a lot of troubles. For example, a lightning strike into the ground, where a metal pipe of your water pipe is laid, even a kilometer away from you - and all lightning through this pipe will immediately jump into the house. Therefore, the main task of the OSUP is to send all these misfortunes to the ground right at their entrance to the house and not allow them to scatter around the house. To do this, all the iron entering the house directly at the entrance is connected to the OSUP and it, in turn, is connected to the ground.

In the TN-C-S system, the PEN conductor is also connected to the PSC conductor supplying your house with VL (they say that the PEN wire is re-grounded at the entrance to the house). Why is this done? Since the voltage on the PEN conductor should ideally always be zero, any increase in voltage on it during operation should be immediately eliminated, therefore, by connecting it to the ground, we achieve this.

Technically, the BPCS is done by performing Main Grounding Bus to which all the pieces of iron entering the house are connected, the PEN conductor of the power line and, of course, the grounding device itself. If there is a lightning conductor, then it is connected directly to the grounding device (there is nothing to go into the house for a moment of lightning). In a private residential building, the RE ground panel performs the role of the Main Grounding Bus.


Now let's talk about PRSP. While OSUP protects your house as a whole, DSUP protects only specific rooms in the house. In a residential building, something is constantly being rebuilt, repaired, and so on. At the same time, someone exchanges metal pipes for plastic pipes, someone does not, etc.

At the same time, many ties with the PMAS are lost somewhere deep in the house and it is impossible to track all these changes, therefore the EMP requires in the hazardous premises an ADDITIONAL CAPACITY BALANCING SYSTEM (DCMS). In residential buildings, bathtubs and showers are just such rooms.

In addition to the fact that the bathroom has pipes for water supply, sewage, heating and other third-party conductive parts (HFC), it can install various electrical appliances with open conductive parts (HRE) on which at any time there may be a phase from various malfunctions in these electrical appliances . The likelihood of electric trams here increases dramatically.

The objective of the DCMS is to prevent this. How can this be done? If we connect all the potentially dangerous pieces of iron in the bathroom together, here we connect all the potentially dangerous open conductive parts of electrical equipment (HRE) and stop there, we will face bitter disappointment. We got the result LOCAL potential equalization system which PUE forbids to do in a bathroom (PUE p.1.88).

What is the matter here? But the fact is that by combining all that is, we did not allow the current to flow if voltage appears on this LOCAL potential equalization system to drain into the ground. Having touched such a Local potential equalization system with your hand, the current will happily rush to the ground, but already through your body along the chain arm - legs - conductive floor - earth (hopes that it will drain down to any grounded third-party conductive part and the like should not be as at any moment these communications with the ground may be broken). The most reliable in such a situation is to fulfill the requirements of the PUE, that is, connect the local potential equalization system with a PE bus (count with the ground) of your shield with a separate conductor.


SO:

1. If the TN-C-S system is made in your house and there is a bathtub, then it is imperative to make a control system, while the control system must be connected to the solution at the entrance to the apartment (in your apartment panel)

2. The same if a TT system is installed in your home.

3. If two-wire wiring is made in your house (old housing stock), then you can’t make DCS. Such a DCS, not connected to the PE bus, is called a LOCAL potential equalization system, which the PUE forbids in clause 7.1.88 (the probability of skidding from the side of the potential in this case increases sharply, but there are no ways for it to drain). However, it is necessary to make a jumper between the metal body of the bathtub and the metal pipe supplying water to the bathtub (and if the supply pipe is made of plastic, with the tap itself). This will eliminate some emergency situations, but not all of the possible ones.

Bathroom emergencies

Fig. 10 Bathroom emergencies

Figure 10 shows that by installing such a jumper we reduced all possible emergency situations to only one when the current flows through the human body along the circuit: bath (metal pipe, faucet) - arm - legs - conductive floor - earth. This emergency situation can be eliminated only by making a grounding device (charger) and connect to it local potential equalization system (or going into the bath to wear rubber boots). The situation in the bathroom is even worse if a washing machine is installed.

Therefore, I recommend for those who have this situation immediately:

1. Install a jumper between the metal body of the bathtub and the metal water pipe (if the plastic pipe is by the tap itself).

2. Install an RCD of 30 mA at the entrance to the house.

3. Install the ILV relay at the entrance to the house.

This is something that can already be done right now, but will not save you from all emergency situations, so you still have to do the memory. After you make the memory, then perform the DCMS in the bathroom in its final form and the OSUP. Then you can find the time and remake the electrical wiring in the house on a 3-wire.

Very good recommendations on how to implement the DCMS, see appendices- Technical circular No. 23/2009 "on ensuring electrical safety and the implementation of the system of additional equalization of potentials in bathrooms, showers and plumbing." Along the way, pay attention to points 8 and 6 of this circular. From paragraph 8 it follows that if the water supply to the house is made of a plastic pipe that does not have a conductive insert connected to the OSUP, then the faucet in the bathroom should be considered an external conductive part (HFC) and it should be connected by a wire to the DSUP(even if it is mounted on a plastic pipe).

And further. In the bathroom, you can not arbitrarily install electrical appliances, sockets and the like.

Everything here is strictly regulated. Therefore, be sure to read the document that I gave in the appendix GOST R50571.11-96 `` Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 701. Bathrooms and Showers. "

And one more remark. Very often, a socket with a grounding contact is installed in the bathroom. In passing, I note that it should be installed in zone 3, that is, no closer than 0.6 m from the body of the bathtub. Since three wires go to such a socket - phase, zero and a protective PE conductor, which is connected to the shield panel, many, without further ado, connect the DCS to it using the grounding contact of the socket itself. DO NOT DO THIS. At any time, with a faulty outlet, your friend D. Vanya will come, who will remove the wire outlet, isolate it and tell you when you buy a new one, I will come and put it on.

He may simply not think about connecting any two wires to each other, that is, the DCSA will not be connected to the RE-bus of the shield with all the ensuing consequences, in addition, the protective conductor going to such a socket itself may be smaller section than required. Therefore, always connect the DCS to the shield guard with a SEPARATE conductor. Well, and the PE conductor itself, going to the outlet, can be left - there will be no harm from this.


Continuation of the article: Electrosafe private house and cottage. Part 2.

Applications:

Technical Circular No. 23/2009 "on ensuring electrical safety and the implementation of the system for additional equalization of potentials in bathrooms, showers and plumbing." - https://i.electricianexp.com/en/23_2009.zip

GOST R50571.11-96 '' Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 701. Bathrooms and showers "- https://i.electricianexp.com/en/R50571.11-96.zip

GOST R 50571.12-96 '' Electrical installations of buildings. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations. Section 703. Premises containing heaters for saunas "- https://i.electricianexp.com/en/R50571.12-96.zip

See also at i.electricianexp.com:

  • Electrosafe private residential building and cottage. Part 2
  • Electrosafe private residential building and cottage. Part 3. Lightning protection
  • Equalization Systems
  • Electrosafe private house and cottage. Part 4 (ending). Examples of choosing Y ...
  • Electrosafe private residential building and cottage. Part 4. Overvoltage protection ...

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: Michael | [quote]

     
     

    The main disadvantage of the TN-C-S subsystem (this is the subsystem of the TN-S grounding system) is that if, for any reason, the PEN conductor breaks or burns out, then in the event of insulation failure, the electrical enclosure may be energized relative to the ground. RCDs can operate normally only in the TN-S grounding system and the TN-C-S subsystem. In the TT system, the grounding of the electrical equipment is independent of the grounding of the power source, i.e. their ground points are spatially spaced. All equipment that is protected by an RCD in the TT system must be connected to ground. The sum of the resistances of the ground conductor and the housing must be such that a short circuit current of 1A causes the protection device to trip automatically before the voltage on the chassis exceeds an acceptable value of 50 V. For an RCD, a current of 1 A will be the differential current that causes the RCD to trip. If voltage above 50 V can appear on the equipment case due to current leakage or short circuit, it is also recommended to connect the neutral conductor to the RCD.

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Dear Michael. For an individual residential building, the implementation of the TN-C-S system means that MANDATORY re-grounding of the PEN conductor at the entrance to the house is MANDATORY. A break in the PEN wire on the overhead line will result in the appearance of the same or opposite phase wire from neighboring houses instead of PEN on the house entrance. Such an accident may go unnoticed for a long time, since now all the current from you and your neighbors will flow into your grounding device.If your grounding device fails, at the entrance to the house either two phases of the same name or two opposite phases appear and then the phase will sit on all open conductive parts. RCD in this situation is useless, since it is not your phase that is sitting on the HRE, but the neighboring one. The only way out in this situation is to break all three wires at the input to the home phase, N and PE conductors - after they are separated (for example, using a three-pole circuit breaker and a minimum maximum voltage relay -RMM for this purpose). To this it is necessary to add the fact that the circuit breakers stop working because there is no connection with the power source, and the earth fault currents are insufficient for their reliable operation. If the PEN wire breaks off at the branch to the house (in the area from the pillar to the house itself), this is a different situation and must be described separately. Regarding this situation, S.T.-I wrote in the second part of the article. Sincerely, Mironov.S.I.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello. My husband and I bought a house and are now engaged in its overhaul. Already entered the stage of replacing internal engineering networks. I am very interested in issues related to the electrical safety of this entire economy. In our house, the TN-C system, just for a number of reasons, it will not work to do something else safer. RCD will be installed without fail on all lines leaving the shield. Tell me, how much does the type of flooring affect in this grounding system for the normal operation of the RCD? What is better to choose for the kitchen and hallway (there will be many different electrical equipment) - tiles, linoleum or laminate? I understand that for the correct operation of the RCD to create a path to the leakage current, there must be a conductive floor. How dangerous is it to use a floor that does not conduct electricity? In general, something I'm completely confused. Thanks in advance for your reply!

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello Veronica! For your case, it is necessary to install a two-pole circuit breaker after the counter, after it a voltage monitoring relay RN-111m, then an UZO of 30 mA and so on, see fig. 13 in the article "Electrically safe private house and cottage" for part 2. Despite this that you have only two wires, do all 3-wire wiring. After you do your personal grounding (no more than 57 Ohms) you will have an excellent TT system. Everything is described in detail in the 2nd part of the article. It is important for the floor that it is not electrically conductive. If you do make your grounding anyway, what kind of flooring will be will not be relevant anymore - all leaks will pass through the PE wire into the ground, without the participation of your body, the RCD will trip and disconnect the damaged electrical device. I don’t remember exactly, but the linoleum coating from the above is the most “electrical safe”, but it is necessary to clarify between it and the laminate. Remember that without grounding, the current required to operate the RCD will go through your body and the probability that you will remain alive is 95%.

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The fact is that we do not plan to do our grounding in the near future. Based on this, I am very interested in the question - will the RCD work with our TN-C system if I accidentally get under voltage and at the same time stand on a non-conductive surface. As I understand it, both linoleum and laminate are non-conductive materials, because the first is rubber, and the second is wood. It may be safer to use a tile for this, since a real path for current leakage will be created here, and in previous cases the leakage current for the RCD will be insufficient and is it much more dangerous?

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Veronica. If you stand on a non-conductive floor, the RCD will not work. If you stand on a conductive floor, the RCD will work. In the first case, although the RCD will not work, it still will not kill you with electric shock - remember the birds sitting on the wires. If you have an RCD of 30 mA, it will work when the current through your body reaches 30 mA.What is the effect of a current of 30 mA per person? I quote: 20-25mA - hands paralyze instantly it is impossible to break away from the wire, severe pain, difficulty breathing. What effect does a current of 10 mA have on a person? I quote: the hands are difficult but can be torn off the wire, severe pain in the fingers and hands. Therefore, put on the whole house an RCD of 30 mA, and in especially hazardous rooms an RCD of 10 mA. And all the same, do not put off and make grounding, this is one day work.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Veronica. If it is absolutely impossible to make grounding, then it can be done as follows. At the entrance to the house, divide the zero wire into two, one will be zero, and the other a protective PE. Connect zero and phase to the electric meter. From the electric meter, connect the zero and phase to a three-pole circuit breaker (to its two poles), to connect the protective PE conductor to the third pole of this circuit breaker. To the output contacts of the machine, to phase and zero, connect the relay of maximum and minimum voltage PMM. Next, connect the RCD and so on. To the third output terminal of the machine, connect the PE bus of the shield from which we will take protective conductors to outlets. In this case, you will not be shocked every time - the RCD itself will turn off the faulty device. If, instead of zero, a phase appears at the entrance to the house (this can happen in case of an accident on the line), the RMM relay will trip and disconnect the machine mechanically blocked with it. The machine, in turn, will break all three wires at the entrance to the house and thereby prevent all the troubles associated with this type of accident.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thank you very much for such a detailed answer! I myself am an electrician-engineer by city electric transport and I always thought that I understand everything that is connected with electricity. But as the repair began, it turned out that there were so many subtleties and not entirely clear things that even my head was spinning from all this. A very specific area is home wiring and everything related to the installation of RCDs, grounding, etc. It’s nice when there are such smart experts who are always ready to help!

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Mironov S.I,

    Hello.

    I want to say thank you for "Electrically safe private residential building and cottage. Part 1". Liked! I wanted to clarify, you are here advising to connect the PE conductor through a three-pole circuit breaker. Is it possible to connect a PE conductor through an automatic machine !? Still how the TN-C or TT system can affect the performance of an RCD. I think and understand that the RCD does not participate in the RCD conductor and the above systems are not involved. Or am I wrong?

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Veronica. Still, keep in mind the following. I don’t remember exactly, but the grounding resistance of the transformer was chosen on the basis of those considerations that under the most adverse conditions, the voltage on the neutral wire would not exceed 60 volts. What does this mean for us? This means that in case of some accident on the line, there can be a voltage of 60 volts on our neutral wire. If you touch this zero, then a current of 60/1000 = 60 mA will go through a person, and this is serious. Conclusion - grounding still needs to be done.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: Jacob | [quote]

     
     

    Felix, it’s not clear what you mean - "the RCD does not participate in the RCD operation and the above listed systems". What is it like?
    According to the article "Electrically Safe Private Residential House and Cottage". Everything is written very well and correctly, although a bit non-standard presentation of the material. From the first time, not everything was clear. In general, articles of this type are very necessary and it is desirable that as many people as possible get to know her, since the issues discussed in the article are incredibly important and serious.

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    For Felix. PUE 1.7.145 allows to break the PE conductor simultaneously with the neutral and phase conductors FOR RESIDENTIAL HOUSES and Cottages powered by single-phase branches from the overhead line. In the notes to fig. I pointed it out.With a direct touch to the phase wire, which is located in the protection zone of the RCD - yes, we do not need PE conductors, here the leakage current for the RCD goes through the human body itself. However, the phase wire can touch, for example, the housing of the washing machine. In sec. TN-C-S in this case will instantly trip the machine and turn off the faulty electrical device (along the circuit: phase - machine - washing machine housing - PE conductor - PEN wire - power source). In such a system, an RCD here firstly protects a person from direct contact, secondly, it insures the machine with the so-called defective short circuit to the case (for example, the phase comes to the winding of the electric motor and this winding in the middle closed to the case. Such a current may be insufficient for instantaneous the operation of the machine, but it is sufficient for the operation of the RCD - this is where the PE conductor comes in handy). Well, for a TT system without PE, wires for RCDs are completely impossible.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello. In Figure 9, the PEN conductor is connected to L1 (on the transformer). Is that a typo? Or is there no connection?

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    yes typo.

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks for the answer! Thank you for the article!

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: Alexander Molokov | [quote]

     
     

    Quote: Anatoly
    Hello. In Figure 9, the PEN conductor is connected to L1 (on the transformer). Is that a typo? Or is there no connection?

    These are the remnants of a former luxury, which was a grounded neutral.

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks for answers. But, I would like clarity. Your article mainly describes
    private house protection system. And what should the “happy owners" of the old Khrushchev with the TN - C system do?
    Is it possible to make a TT and DCS system, if I live on the ground floor and have the technical ability (a place for an earth loop), as well as convert the wiring from two-wire to three-wire and install an apartment panel with all protection devices (UZO, ILV). Will it affect the safety of neighbors. And in general - is it legitimate? If this is dangerous, then what is the danger, specifically?
    Thanks.

     
    Comments:

    # 18 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Anatoly. Find the article in the journal "Automation, Communications, Informatics" No. 12 for 2002. Comparative analysis of the neutral mode of electric networks 0.4 kV. In it you can find the answers to your questions. Sincerely.

     
    Comments:

    # 19 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Veronica. Unfortunately, the RMM relay will not cope with the task. I tested it and it does not respond to the same phase and break. The RN-111m relay responds to all malfunctions, but the circuit is very complicated. Sincerely.

     
    Comments:

    # 20 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    What is the TT system in a private house (apartment)? Only TN-S or TN-C-S! (PUE 7.1.13)

     
    Comments:

    # 21 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Pavlukh. Chapter 7 is the electrical equipment for SPECIAL electrical installations. According to 7.1.1, this chapter applies to the electrical installations of residential buildings listed in SNiP 2.08.01-89. If you are not too lazy to look at this SNiP, it will become clear that it speaks of apartment buildings and hostels. This has nothing to do with private homes. Sincerely.

     
    Comments:

    # 22 wrote: Alexander (Alex Gal) | [quote]

     
     

    Quote: Anatoly
    Is it possible to make a TT and DCS system, if I live on the ground floor and have the technical ability (a place for an earth loop), as well as convert the wiring from two-wire to three-wire and install an apartment panel with all protection devices (UZO, ILV). Will it affect the safety of neighbors. And in general - is it legitimate? If this is dangerous, then what is the danger, specifically?

    In short and unequivocally - TT in a high-rise building is impossible. Even if you live on the first floor. This is according to the current rules and considering the issue in practical terms.

    If we consider it abstractly and purely theoretically :), then it is possible, but for this it will be necessary to fulfill the requirements of the rules: If in one electrical installation (in this case in the apartment) there are two different grounding, then it is necessary to exclude the possibility of touching the structures (devices) connected at the same time to these grounding systems. That is, different grounding systems must be isolated from each other. In a private house, such an opportunity is real, in a high-rise building where all communications (pipelines, building fittings) are common - it is physically impossible to fulfill.You will need to completely isolate your apartment from the rest of the house.

    In this case, at the entrance to the apartment you need a control system, and in premises with increased danger and a control room.

    Think about how feasible this is.

    The danger of such a solution is quite obvious, as a result of some emergency situations (short circuit to the building, destruction of the building's control circuits), voltage can appear on either your or common building grounded equipment.

    RCD will not save you in this case.

    The best solution in this case is the additional (re) grounding of your floor board and the TN-C-S system with a protective conductor from the floor board. Unfortunately, all this in the place is quite difficult to accomplish and coordinate with the owner of the communal electricity network, which usually does not care much for such problems. It is clear that it is much easier to get your grounding in your window. But alas, this can add to security concerns.

    And if you decide to combine your grounding with the building's control system (through connecting it to communal utilities), you can get (not necessarily, but quite likely) a sufficiently large equalizing current from the building control system to your ground.

     
    Comments:

    # 23 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    riddle in the subject
    "with claws, but not a bird - flies and swear!"
    the answer is, an electrician fell from a pillar.
    bad did not know TB

     
    Comments:

    # 24 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good article and author comments. I fully agree with the stated material.
    I recommend, as the chief engineer of an enterprise with 500 electricians in the state, to use this article.

     
    Comments:

    # 25 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Question on electrical safety of a private house.

    1). It is impossible to break the PEN conductor before entering the house, as advised with the TN-C-S system, to make the PEN conductor re-ground. Maybe with a 3-wire wiring system “0”, the working and “0” protective ones on the busbars in the shield should be connected with a jumper (although this connection appears when the input circuit breaker is turned on or, if there is no voltage, plug the boiler stabilizer plug into the socket). Connect the grounding circuit to the third busbar, onto which the protective conductors are brought out from the housings of electrical appliances, bathtubs, sinks ???

    2). What is the best way to protect a private house in the matter of electrical safety, if the input circuit breaker is 25A, and the load is more than 5 kW. Stabilizers more than 5 kW require a large current, and 5 kW - 25A, but stabilizers are chosen with a 30% power margin, i.e. the useful power of a 5 kW stabilizer will be 3.5 kW, and this is small.

     
    Comments:

    # 26 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Sergei, on the first question: the most effective and safe option is the last one, that is, make a grounding circuit and connect the grounding conductors of the home wiring lines to it.

    As for protection, the 25 A circuit breaker can withstand a load of 5.5 kW in rated mode. If the load is greater than this value, it is possible to set the circuit breaker to a higher rated current, but if it is not forbidden by power supply, since usually the input power limit for the house is set by the input automat.

    If we are talking about the reliability of the stabilizer protection against overload, then you should choose an automatic machine for its protection based on, as you wrote, useful power. That is, if this power is 3.5 kW, then you should choose a 16 A circuit breaker (for a single-phase network).

    In addition, not all household electrical appliances can be planted on a voltage regulator, but only the most vulnerable to voltage surges. For example, electric heaters, an electric oven, an electric heater generally do not make sense to connect to the stabilizer. Moreover, these electrical appliances consume most of the total amount of electrical energy consumed. That is, in fact, it makes no sense to take a stabilizer with the power that is consumed by all electrical appliances in a house or apartment. Thus, after analyzing which electrical appliances are operated in the house, you can choose a voltage regulator not 5 kW, but 2 kW.

    To ensure electrical safety during the operation of home electrical wiring, in addition to machines, it is necessary to install both on separate house wiring lines, and on the input, residual current circuit breakers or difavtomats (playing the role of machines and RCDs).

     
    Comments:

    # 27 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good afternoon! The article is very useful, thanks! But there were questions, please help with advice. We connect the house in the village to electricity and can not decide on the grounding system. The power line is made by SIP, but the poles are not grounded. Which system to choose in this case? The chargers made a 6-meter modular pin with stainless steel pins in front of the house entrance and I want to make a TN-C-S, but the lack of grounding of the posts is embarrassing. Is it enough in this case to re-ground at the pole in front of the shield or not to bathe and stop on the TT? It is still worrying that the local electrician is not very well aware of the TN-C-S system and therefore not very sure that he will be able to foresee all the nuances. Thanks.

     
    Comments:

    # 28 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    ".... Horses mixed up in a heap, people ...." - this is the main problem of the Russian energy sector, because No, I’m sure, in this country a man who didn’t imagine himself a genius of electrical engineering. Hence the crap in the article, and in the comments, and, sadly, in the regulatory framework.

    GOSTs, SNiPs, even HSS - are not able to stop the flow of inarticulate reasoning, worthless projects, inoperative, made almost on the knee, start-up protective equipment and wiring accessories.

    The complete degradation of the vocational training system for specialists - electricians, starting from the electrician (electrician) and ending with the ITR, "without a king in the head", reducing, by similar reasoning, electrical engineering almost to the "Malakhov School".

    I would like to remind the respected public, I. Krylov’s fable "Pike and Cat", which has not lost its relevance today:

    The trouble is, since the pies will start the cobbler’s oven,

    And the boots stitch the pastry,

    And it’s not going to work out well.

    Yes, and a hundredfold,

    What who loves to take someone else’s craft.

    He forever others stubborn and foolish:

    It’s better to ruin everything,

    And glad soon

    The laughing stock of becoming light

    Than honest and knowledgeable people

    Ask il for advice.

     
    Comments:

    # 29 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello Michael! While reading your article, I noticed several inaccuracies, namely:

    1. (With a correctly selected circuit breaker, the touch voltage lasts a very short time (0.4 sec at 220 V according to the PUE).)

    In this case, I want to clarify that according to the PUE, 0.4 sec. given for the longest operating time of the circuit breaker at short circuit (220 volt - 0.4 sec. At 380 volt - 0.2 sec.), According to the measured readings of the resistance of the phase-zero loop loop, it is necessary to choose the circuit breaker correctly (also taking into account the cross-sections of the conductors), while it is necessary to correctly select the characteristic of the circuit breaker B - (3-5 ratings), C- (5-10 ratings), D- (10-15 ratings). Namely, I want to say that the touch voltage and the response time of the circuit breaker for a short circuit are different things, since when measuring the short circuit current in a phase-zero circuit, the resistance of the human body was not taken into account. It follows from this that to protect a person from direct contact with live parts can only RCDs that respond to leakage current. An indirect touch will not work, because if the electrical apparatus is grounded and an insulation breakdown occurs, the phase has entered the machine body, then the RCD will shut off before any contact with the machine body (TM-C-S. T-T system). As for the potential equalization system, now mainly plastic, polypropylene, etc. Although sometimes it seems to me that a stainless steel sink fights a little with electric current, although polypropylene is everywhere in the house and HDPE pipe is put into the house, but I consider this not critical, the potential voltage difference that is not dangerous for life and health,arising in any case on a certain section of metal conductors. Best regards, Dmitry

    I want to add to my comment that the probability of a circuit breaker tripping on a person’s direct contact with the phase conductor is zero. The likelihood of an RCD tripping depends on the leakage current rating: 10, 30, 100, 300 mils. With increasing amperage, the likelihood of electric shock increases. Safe is considered 10 and 30 milesAmps, the rest are fire. True, there is a risk of false triggering of RCDs at 10 and 30 mI Amperes when the room is damp (as a result of leakage currents), but safety is more expensive, especially if you value your property or you have small children in your family who are very curious. I, working as an electrician for decades, was convinced of this from my own experience. By the way, I received the first electric shock on New Year's Eve at the age of 5, trying to plug a Christmas garland and a star into one socket immediately. Indescribable feelings. Sincerely, Dmitri.

     
    Comments:

    # 30 wrote: Cthutq | [quote]

     
     

    Dmitriy. When analyzing all the emergency situations from Fig. 1 .... 8 by fulfilling the requirements of the EMP, we reduced them all to two to the touch voltage and step voltage. But they must be eliminated, too. The touch voltage here should be understood not as a DIRECT touch of the phase (only RCD will protect against this) but that instant of time when an emergency occurred (for example, you hold on to the refrigerator door and at that moment there is a breakdown of insulation and the phase has sat down on the refrigerator case). At this moment, the current is divided and goes in two ways - through the human body and through the protective conductor to the ground. It was experimentally established that if a person is energized for 220 volts for 0.4 seconds, then this does not threaten his life. Hence the requirement for PUE. Well, so that this time is sustained, you need to choose the right machine and the wire section.

     
    Comments:

    # 31 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Hello! I express my deep gratitude for the article. One feels the hand of a master, a good specialist and a good mentor. Thank you for the material, although not everything is available for my female brains. THANKS FOR PROFESSIONALISM! Great article.

     
    Comments:

    # 32 wrote: Xyger | [quote]

     
     

    PE DO NOT under any circumstances!
    The problem is in crookedly written p.1.7.145.
    This paragraph consists of three sentences.
    First: PE must not be torn. (No way)
    Second: You can disconnect the conductors at the same time. (Further there will be conditions when this can be done).
    Third: PEN should be divided into PE and N BEFORE the input machine (so as not to break PE with this same machine).

    And now it's easier. Imagine the situation:
    Your three-pole circuit breaker, with which you turn off N (isolated from PEN), turn off L, and also turn off PE (isolated from PEN)
    In this machine it is stuck (the phase has brewed).
    The machine disconnected PE and N, but left L.
    What will happen ?

    KIND PEOPLE!
    DO NOT LISTEN TO THIS NAKED Nonsense!
    DO NOT START THE EARTH (RE) UNDER ANY CONDITIONS THROUGH AUTOMATIC MACHINES, TAPPERS, TUMBLERS, GALLETS, PACKAGES OR OTHER OPENING DEVICES.