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How to make a good twist of wires

 

How to make a good twist?This article has a somewhat provocative title. I am sure that there will immediately be people who will instructively write, saying that twisting is illegal and according to the PUE, twisting of wires is prohibited.

Nobody argues with this. If not for the fact that, in spite of everything that is written in the EMP, the vast majority of wire connections in the territory of the former large Soviet country are still twisted.

I will not argue that very good twisting of wires - This is the most reliable and high-quality way to connect wires, although they constantly try to prove it to me. It seems that someone even made a measurement and compared the voltage drop on the twist and on a whole piece of wire, so it turned out to be less on the twist. Perhaps this is something from the field of mythology among electricians. We will simply proceed from the fact that good twisting can be called one of the stages and a very important element of such methods of connecting wires, such as soldering or welding.

Before discussing further about the correct twisting, let's dwell on what will happen if the wires are connected just like that, without technology, "how it happened." In this case, at the point of contact of the two wires occurs contact resistance. There are two reasons for this - a decrease in the cross-sectional area of ​​the wire at the point of contact (mainly due to microprotrusions during connection) and the presence of an oxide film on the wires.


How to make a good twist?Oxide film - the result of the interaction of the atoms of the metal of which the core consists of oxygen. Such an oxide film has a very decent resistivity. The oxide film is absent only in noble metals - gold, platinum, etc. (for that they are also “noble”, which do not react with anyone). In silver, the specific resistance of the oxide film is the same as in the metal itself, so silver is actively used in the contacts of various electrical devices.

When the wire is heated by the current passing through it, the transition contact resistance increases even more, because the generated heat is not completely removed to the environment, but also heats the wire itself, including twisting.

As a result, all this can lead to an avalanche-like process, when the place of twisting is more and more heated. Here is one of the causes of fires due to the so-called "faults in the wiring."

I met one case when an aluminum twist in a neighbor’s country house stood for only one day. The reason for this is not only the presence of poor-quality twisting, but also the material of the conductive core of the wire. Why copper wire is always better than aluminum the site has already been written.

The most interesting thing is that no circuit breakers and fuses in the switchboard will help in this case, because they respond to an increase in current in the circuit. In our case, the current does not change, it just more and more warms up the contact point of the two wires.

Based on this, we can conclude that A good twist of the wires is necessary, first of all, so that the transition contact resistance always remains stable and does not change over time.


So, what do you need to make a good twist of wires?

First you need to remove the insulation without damaging the wire core. The exposed part of the vein is cleaned of dirt with a clean rag soaked in acetone or white spirit. Then we clean the veins with a metal brush or sandpaper to a metallic luster.

Next, we twist the stripped veins with two pliers. To do this, bend the ends of the wires at an angle of 90about at a distance equal to 7-10 diameters of the core from the insulation slice, and we start them for each other. We wind with pliers 5-7 turns of one core to another.

We wind 5-7 turns of another core and seal the connection with pliers, i.e. we tighten with two pliers the turns of the veins in opposite directions. Then tightly bend the ends of the wires.


In order to make a branch, it is necessary to wind 10-15 turns of a branch core around the main core. Seal the branch with two pliers, tightening the turns of the core by moving them in opposite directions. Then bend the end of the branch core tightly. After all these operations, the twist will be mechanically strong and reliable.

There are many other ways to connect twisted wires. All of these methods are even given characteristic names.

For example, here are some ways that are shown in one famous book for young electricians:

methods of twisting wires

The option that I described in this article, using two pliers, has been tested by practice and has never failed.

After creating a high-quality twist, the wires can be soldered (little used due to the complexity), welded (in one of the articles on the site it was somehow proved that welding is the best way to connect wires).

A good twist is needed, for example, for a more modern and less time-consuming way of connecting wires - when using shrink tube, which is a good alternative to electrical tape.

In appearance, it looks like an ordinary cambric, which is worn on a twist with a margin in both directions. Then the heat shrink tube heats up (for this you can use a regular lighter, but it is better to use an electric hair dryer), wraps tightly around the cable and reliably insulates it.

Do the twisting correctly!

If you have your favorite options for connecting wires - share and tell about it in the comments to the article!

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • How to do splicing and branching wires using twisting
  • Methods of connection, termination and branching of wires and cable cores. Ray ...
  • Why wire twisting is prohibited
  • How to connect wires and cables of different sections
  • Which wire connection is more reliable - Wago clamps or twisting? The story is real ...

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: Paul | [quote]

     
     

    To remove insulation from thin wires up to 1.5 mm2 and bite them, I use the tricky M-1U1 tool. He got me from a retired electrician. It consists of two working handles in covers and legs with cutting edges. In addition, there is a disc with divisions for installation under the size of the cross section of the desired wire. With it, you can remove the insulation from one end of the wire in a couple of seconds. For large cross sections, I use an ordinary construction knife. When cutting the wire and removing the insulation from the wire, you need to hold the knife at an angle to the wire so that it is not cut.
    To clean the veins, I always have a glass skin and a brush made of a card tape with me. Very nice thing! When creating a twist, it is important not to twist the conductors of the wire, which is in isolation. And I agree with what is written. The article is good!

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Sergey Nikolaenko | [quote]

     
     

    Twisting is best done in those places where the inspector does not climb, otherwise there will be many problems, they will force everyone to redo it. For them, welding is better and terminal blocks are different. At one time I even got into trouble with SIZ. And so, a good insulated twist can stand for 50 years, not like these modern “miracle terminals”. Although if everything is according to the PUE, then twisting is certainly impossible, although this is in vain.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: alex | [quote]

     
     

    Twisting is not beneficial to manufacturers of various terminal blocks. Why is a good twist worse, for example, a PPE cap? Naturally, twisting should also be done correctly. A good electrician will never make a left low-quality twist, and a normal twist will always be better than different pseudo-duper connectors of Chinese origin.

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: Semen Deruzhinsky | [quote]

     
     

    Twisting must be well insulated.Best of all, after you have made a twist, cover it with a solution of rosin or solder fat and solder it with a soldering iron or in another way. Then you need to apply insulation from the insulating tape to the soldered twist, so that the layers of tape overlap each other and capture part of the factory insulation of the cores, and then cover it with moisture-proof varnish. Only in this case, the twist will last for decades, and if you do not isolate it normally, then, regardless of the technology of twisting, it can burn out after a couple of months. The main thing in twisting wires is insulation!

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    How to make a twist of a flexible wire (type NYM) and monolithic VVG ???

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: Vitaliy | [quote]

     
     

    romashka,
    the parallel twist is simple (see the figure, an example on the right), NYM tightly wraps around a straight section of the VVG. To prevent contact loosening, it is best to insulate with a heat shrinkable tube.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    In principle, the contact area on the twist is larger than on the terminal of the terminal block IMHO.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I switch the distribution box like that. I make a parallel simple twist of 2-3 cm, then thread the twist through a terminal block with two bolts (sold as a terminal block for twelve terminal blocks per block), and clamp with two bolts. It turns out a rather long twist plus bolts do not let the connection loosen, firefighters also miss. For twisting up to four cores of 2.5 mm2 each, a terminal strip of 10-16 mm2 is enough.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: Dmitriy | [quote]

     
     

    It’s immediately obvious that few people worked at the installation ... According to your technology, you can unsolder one box an hour, especially if it contains 6-7 wires! For me, of course, there is nothing better than twisting (especially boiled) !!! I speak as an installer ..

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Judging by the comments (except the last one), no one worked at the installation and even have no idea about it. If I solder every twist, varnish, isolate, then varnish again, I will be thrown out of installation without the right to restore. In the junction box, cables (mainly VVG) are cut, the insulation from the cores is removed by side cutters, after which the cores are twisted (SIMPLY TURNED) and PPE wound onto twists. AND EVERYTHING !!! And no need to soar brains.

    I forgot to add (or the specialists will eat it up). The veins are twisted with pliers and the denser the better.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I’m cooking the transformer, I’ll ask what are the disadvantages of such a connection? How does an arc affect the properties of copper? The length of the bow is at least 3cm, max 5cm. At the end of the work.
    Manufacturers of wires do not use pure copper but its alloys with something that affects not only the cost but also the hardness of the latter. Therefore, the classic connection loses in contact area since the director of the organization pays the same for the box without distinction of the degree of tightening of the buds. Most installers in the pursuit of money do not pay due attention to this nuance. When the flange is heated by an arc with subsequent cooling, the contact density also drops plus soot, the question is whether the presence of the flip flange when welding is used? If the conductivity does not change after the arc affects the copper, does a docker need to be used as a heat sink at the point of contact?

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    “The most interesting thing is that no circuit breakers and fuses in the switchboard will help in this case, because they respond to an increase in current in the circuit. In our case, the current does not change, it just warms up the place more and more contact of two wires. "- an interesting conclusion. The circuit breaker is a combined device of thermal relay and current protection. That is, it will work both on overheating of the line / consumer, for example, catching a wedge of an electric motor, and K.Z. Everything will depend on the correctness of the selected face value, no more.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: andy78 | [quote]

     
     

    Igor, the thermal release of the circuit breaker determines the overheating of the line / consumer indirectly by increasing the current passing through the release. The article describes an example where the current does not change, and the temperature at the point of contacting the wires increases. In this case, the circuit breaker will not work, as the current will not increase.

    By the way, when protecting the same engines, there are several options when the engine will overheat, but the current in the motor windings does not increase. In this case, the thermal relay is useless, because it is an indirect relay. It determines overload by increasing current. A more reliable form of protection against overheating is the built-in temperature protection with thermistors in the motor windings.

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: Vitaliy | [quote]

     
     

    Something here, no one has said yet, as a simple addition. You can simply clamp under the bolts, if large loads. That is, also, the usual good twisting + ordinary bolts, tighten all the way!

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    A bolted connection increases the reliability of the contact, but in some cases this method is not very convenient to use. For example, in a junction box or socket box where you need to branch the wire, free space is limited. In such cases, and indeed, if it is necessary to connect the conductors, it is more convenient to crimp the twist with sleeves - it is also quite practical and most importantly reliable.

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Solder the wires with a welding machine, it is fast and reliable.

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: Vasya | [quote]

     
     

    I saw such a welding machine only in the workshop of a technical school (when I studied there). In practice, I have never met her.

    This is so, by the way :)

     
    Comments:

    # 18 wrote: Alexander Yermanin | [quote]

     
     

    Twisting is generally prohibited and there is nothing to say about it! At least some good ones, they were not, there will be oxide film and heating, and in general it is a collective farm!