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Modern terminals for connecting wires

 

Modern terminals for connecting wiresIf someone still believes that there is nothing better for connecting the wires than stripping their ends with a knife, twisting them, and wrapping them with electrical tape, then he is behind the times. Today, there are already plenty of alternative devices that greatly facilitate the process of connecting wires, and at the same time are quite reliable. Time twist will soon sink into oblivion, for they are replaced by a variety of terminals.

terminal blocks

Why are the terminals good? Such as, connect aluminum wire to copperso that the connection is reliable and durable?

It is absolutely impossible to twist copper with aluminum, because then a galvanic pair is formed, and corrosion will simply destroy the connection, it does not matter what size the current will pass through the twist, it will break down sooner or later, and if the current is greater, turn on and off the devices more often, then the twisting resistance will increase faster, over time, the heating of the twisting point will become more and more.

In the end, it is fraught with fire, or at best - the smell of molten insulation. The terminals in this situation would be saved, and the matter would not have come to the destruction of the place of contact.

polyethylene terminal block

The simplest solution is to put polyethylene terminal block. Polyethylene terminal blocks are sold today in every electrical goods store, and are not expensive. Several brass tubes (sleeves) are arranged in a row inside the polyethylene frame, in which the ends of the wires to be connected are clamped with two screws. If desired, you can cut off how many tubes in polyethylene are needed, and connect as many pairs of wires as you need.

However, not everything is so rosy, aluminum flows under the pressure of the screw at room temperature, so from time to time, once a year, it will be necessary to tighten the connection. Otherwise, when it comes to connecting copper conductors, everything will be fine.

If the aluminum wire staggering in the terminal block is not pulled in time, then the end of the wire that has lost its former contact will spark and heat up, and this is fraught with fire. You can not clamp multicore wires into such a terminal strip without auxiliary pin terminals, which we will talk about later.

If you simply clamp the stranded wire into such a terminal strip, then the pressure of the screw on the thin veins, combined with rotation and an uneven surface, will lead to the fact that part of the veins will become unusable, and this threatens to overheat. If a stranded wire fits tightly on the diameter of the sleeve, this is the most acceptable connection option, because there is less risk of connection failure.

As a result, we can conclude that polyethylene terminal blocks are good for single-core, and only for copper wires. If you need to clamp a stranded one, you will have to put on an auxiliary tip, which will be discussed later.

terminals on plastic pads

The next option is convenient connection terminals - terminals on plastic pads. Such terminal blocks equipped with transparent covers, which can be removed if desired. Fastening is very simple: the stripped end of the wire is pushed between the pressure and contact plates, and pressed by means of a screw.

What are the advantages of such terminal blocks? Firstly, unlike polyethylene terminal blocks, plastic terminal blocks have an even steel clamp, there is no direct screw pressure on the wires. The clamping part has a recess under the wire. As a result, these terminal blocks are applicable for connecting groups as single and stranded wires. Why groups? Because this terminal block can not be cut like polyethylene.

WAGO Series 773

Next are self-locking terminals, an example of which is WAGO Series 773. These are express terminals for quick one-time wiring.The wire is pushed all the way into the hole, and there it is automatically fixed by the pressure plate, pressing the cores to a special tinned tire. The pressing force is maintained all the time thanks to the material of the pressure plate.

WAGO Terminals

These express terminals are disposable, but in principle, you can pull out the wire by quietly rotating it during pulling. But if you pull out the wire, then the next connection is better to do it already in the new clamp, fortunately, they are not expensive, 10-20 times cheaper than the terminal blocks.

The inner copper plate has tinning, and allows you to fix at least aluminum, even copper wires. The clamping force is maintained continuously, and the wire does not have to be pressed once a year, as happens with the terminal blocks.

Inside there is also a lubricant based on quartz sand with technical petroleum jelly, for abrasive, eliminating the oxide film, action on the surface of the wire, which prevents, thanks to petroleum jelly, its appearance again. These express terminals are transparent and opaque. In any case, plastic does not support combustion.

WAGO branded express clamps suitable for connections with an estimated current of up to 25A. Terminals of other manufacturers may suffer from heating, for example, the clamping force of the spring contacts will weaken, so use only branded, well-proven terminals.

222 series from WAGO

Suitable as reusable terminals 222 series from WAGO. These are terminal blocks with lever clamps. Here you can also clamp wires of various types. The fastening process is simple: the lever rises, the end of the clamped wire is inserted, the lever is pressed - fixing occurs.

This clamp is reusable. When raising the lever, the fixation is removed, one wire can be pulled out and another inserted. This type of terminal is ideal for re-configuring conductor groups. Withstands currents up to 32 amperes without overheating. The design of the clamp is a bit like a disposable express clamp, the difference again is the ability to repeatedly switch the connected conductors.

scotch-lock couplings

Next we will consider scotch-lock couplings. These are disposable couplings for low current conductors. Using tape locks, you can connect telephone wires, low-power LED lights, etc. The essence of this fixture is mortise contact.


Several wires, directly in isolation, are inserted into the sleeve, then crimped with pliers. Installers of structured cabling systems love Scotch Loki. Scotch locks allow you to connect wires without the need to strip them. A plate with cutting contacts simply cuts into the insulation, and comes in contact with the conductor, with the core.

Scotch locks come in two and three cores. The peculiarity of such terminals is that they are cheap, waterproof, versatile, and do not require stripping of the ends, but are crimped with simple pliers. A hydrophobic gel is present inside the coupling to protect the contacts from moisture and corrosion.

If you need to replace the connection, the adhesive tape is simply cut out with pieces of wire, and a new one is put.

Connecting sleeves

When you need to connect several wires into one powerful unit, for example, simply combine them, or for laying on the terminal block, apply sleeves. The sleeves are most often used universal, they are usually tinned copper sleeves in the form of tubes, or in the form of flat tips with a mounting hole.

The wires are inserted into the sleeve, and crimped with a special tool - a crimper. Crimper - this is crimping pliers. The huge advantage of the sleeves is that such crimping does not create increased resistance at the junction. Sleeves in the shape of a flat tip with a hole are convenient when you need to fix a wire or bundle of wires on the housing with a screw. Just pick up a sleeve of a suitable diameter, crimp, and attach the tip to where you need it.

pin sleeve lugs

To connect stranded wires, to combine single-core wires with stranded wires, or simply to fix them in terminal blocks, apply pin sleeve lugs.

The stranded wire is conveniently inserted into the lug, the lug together with the wire is pressed, after which the stranded wire can be fixed in any terminal block, even in polyethylene, without fear that the connection will be broken.

Decisive here is the correct choice of the diameter of the tip, it must correspond to the total diameter of the crimped, bundled, lived so that the wires then do not pop out.

To crimp the pin tips, you can do with pliers or use a screwdriver and a hammer.

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • Terminal blocks for connecting wires, junction boxes and din ...
  • How to connect copper and aluminum wires
  • How to connect wires and cables of different sections
  • Wago terminal blocks in home wiring
  • Terminals, clamps and sleeves for connecting copper and aluminum wires

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thank you for such useful advice, very helpful. I just needed to choose the best connection of copper and aluminum wire, I settled on a plastic terminal. Although, as I understand it, it will need to be periodically tightened. A competent article, everything about the case, thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Sergei | [quote]

     
     

    Of modern terminals used WAGO 222 series. For some reason, many scold them, but they are used all over the world. If not fakes, then there are no better or more convenient WAGO terminals. The only thing I would not recommend using them in plastered walls, i.e. it is best to install where there is access to maintain electrical wiring and check the quality of contacts.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: Astro | [quote]

     
     

    "I just needed to choose the best connection of copper and aluminum wires, I settled on a plastic terminal block"

    What kind of animal is this polyethylene terminal block and how does it help to connect aluminum with copper?

    Here's another question. Moisture-proof sockets were installed in the damp room, since global manufacturers provided for this. But no one provided for moisture-proof terminal blocks. I’ve been struggling for a week how to combine three wires (I need to connect two lamps with a switch (6 wires in total: 3 phase and 3 zero; each section has different sections 0.5mm2, 0.75mm2 and incoming 1.5mm2). I don’t accept twisting and non-separable connections (in a specific this case with this room).

    A good option to pressure and stick somewhere. About screw terminal blocks in articles like yours they write that in the developed world they were abandoned, but they do not write in favor of WHAT? Does the terminal block not exist or is it rare in our stores? So I came to the Wago version, but they are too bulky to fit in the heat shrink tube. So far I haven’t come up with anything better than pouring Vago terminal blocks with silicone sealant, but when it all hardens and years pass ... in general, not the best option.

    He also came up with a compact option: to crimp each wire separately, then attach them to each other, put on a sleeve or a pin sleeve tip (from your description it follows that there is no difference between them - both of them for combining the wires). But how good the contact will turn out ... for me the question.
    Then I think it is necessary to immediately place all three wires without crimping into a sleeve and crimp, but again, how to make the contact tight good ... twist it? Or just attach to each other, put on a sleeve and squeeze it?

    I would like to know the answers to all these questions.

    Thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Astro, the article provides a brief description and photo of a polyethylene terminal block. In this terminal block, the contact part is made of brass, which normally contacts both with a copper conductor and with aluminum. Both conductors are pressed under separate screws.As a result, we get a contact connection in which copper and aluminum conductors do not directly contact. But due to the buoyancy of aluminum, the connection with such a terminal block will be unreliable, it is better to choose another option. For example, the plastic terminal blocks considered in the article, in which the contact area is larger and the aluminum wire does not lose contact reliability many times longer, compared to the polyethylene terminal block.

    Regarding the installation of electrical wiring in a damp room. The terminal blocks are used the same everywhere, regardless of the installation location. In this case, the difference is where the terminal strip is mounted - that is, the type of mounting box. For rooms with high humidity, a moisture-proof junction box is selected. In the junction box itself, you can connect the conductors in any way you choose. If you do not accept a non-separable connection, then you can select the aforementioned plastic terminal block, for the screw connections of which you can connect conductors of different diameters. You can also use Wago terminals - in this case, you must select the terminals that allow you to simultaneously connect the required conductors - in your case, the cross-sectional range is 0.5-1.5 sq. Mm. No need to fill the terminals with sealant, hide them in a heat shrink tube. It is necessary to have unhindered access to contact connections, that is, to make contact connections of conductors exclusively in mounting boxes.

    As for the method of connecting conductors by crimping, it is not necessary to crimp each wire separately with a sleeve. In this case, the conductors are first twisted, and then the sleeve is put on the finished twist and crimped. Crimping is carried out exclusively by special press tongs. At the expense of reliability, crimping is a more reliable contact connection compared to terminal blocks, but this is a non-separable connection, and you wrote from the very beginning that you do not accept such a connection.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: Astro | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks for the recommendation!

    As far as I understand now, is the polyethylene terminal block the same ordinary white screw terminal block?

    Do you mean exclusively Wago with plastic ones with a larger contact area? Often, on the contrary, Wago is scolded, and prefers ordinary screw terminal blocks (those that are white or black).

    Regarding access to the wires and the junction box, you are all right, of course, say, but in life ... :) The connection is in two places, one stretches from wall to wall on the street, there the box will not work, because under your feet will interfere. Another place: a very narrow niche in the window. I understand that you can increase or shorten the cable, thereby "shifting" the junction to more suitable places. Well, let's think.

    I understood about the crimping. Thanks. The logic was this: it is difficult to separate the welded or soldered twists into separate wires (you need scissors for metal or a soldering iron, or something else), and the crimped one is easier to disassemble, and it is easier to reassemble, because you can do with ordinary pliers (everyone even has them in places where a modern tool for pressing pliers is not available). And in order not to damage the cable conductors during raking, they are in the lugs. But I will listen to you and I won’t squeeze it into the tip separately, but I’ll immediately pressure it into the sleeve.

    Yes, by the way, I read something and correct myself, the pin sleeve tip is not a complete replacement for the sleeve. It can be used only for the purpose of further input to the terminal (for example, a circuit breaker), but not for self-contained connections.

    Thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Astro, not at all. Yes, this is a screw terminal block. Color can be not only white, but structurally does not differ. At the expense of terminal blocks with a larger contact area, I had in mind screw terminal blocks (pads) - similar to those that are discussed in the article after polyethylene terminals.The article says that the stripped end of the wire simply sticks between the pressure and contact plate, but I usually bend the wires of the wire into a ring - more reliably and if the wire is aluminum, then it does not lose the reliability of contact with time.

    If you prefer crimping, then the pliers will not work, you only need a special crimping tool for the reliability of the contact connection. I believe that it is better to make a supply of cable (if possible) and if it is necessary to disassemble the connection, simply remove the welded, crimped or soldered twists and reconnect the necessary conductors. Crimping is a non-separable connection, all the same, when reconnecting, it is necessary to take a new sleeve and twist and crimp the conductors again.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: Astro | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks. I understood and understood everything for myself, took some nuances for armament.