Categories: Practical Electronics, Repair of household appliances
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DIY remote control repair. Part 2. Repair Tips

 

DIY repairThe first part of the article was told about the history of the emergence and development of remote controls (remote control) for controlling household television equipment.

Despite all the technological breakthroughs, increasing the speed and number of teams, improving the design and noise immunity of the remote control, this is perhaps the most vulnerable node of the body and video equipment. It is he who gradually or immediately ceases to work, leading the hosts to bewilderment. Next, various typical malfunctions of remote controls and methods for their elimination will be considered.


The TV does not respond to any of the buttons on the remote control

The question immediately arises - what to do and who is to blame. Undoubtedly, it is necessary to start the verification with what is simpler, namely with the remote control. First of all, you need to check if the remote control works at all. It is very easy to do. It is enough to bring the remote control LED to the camera lens, which is in any phone, and press any button. In this case, the flashes of the remote control LED will be noticeable on the viewfinder screen. Color can be from white to bluish, everything, apparently, depends on the camera.

If these flashes are, then we can assume that the remote control is almost serviceable. Pressing all buttons in turn allows you to check each button individually. Before doing this test, it is advisable to check the batteries. The easiest option is to replace the batteries with new ones or check the available ones with a multimeter.


Multimeter Battery Check

This is best done in the DC current measurement mode over the 10A range. At lower limits, it is possible to “burn off” a 250mA fuse inside the device. Unlike batteries, batteries are not afraid of short-circuit, and if it is possible to measure the current within 200..500mA, then everything is in order. Testing is best done separately for each battery, as it is easier to hold it in your hands along with the probes of the device.

If you measure the voltage on the batteries, then you need to load them, otherwise even unusable batteries can show the presence of voltage. In the process of checking - replacing the batteries, pay attention to the contact plates in the battery compartment. If oxide deposits or rust are detected, the plates should be cleaned with sandpaper or not even a very large file.


To avoid scandals at home, the number of TVs must be at least two. This is the best option for checking a “suspicious” remote control. Well, it’s probably known that the remote controls are suitable (or not suitable) for both home TVs.

If the batteries were changed, the camera looked, and there were no light pulses from this, then the remote control will have to be disassembled.

A small remark: if the normal operation of the remote control stopped immediately after it was dropped to the floor, then first of all after disassembling it is worth paying attention to the ceramic resonator.


Disassembling the remote control

All remotes are arranged and disassembled quite uniformly. The first thing to do is remove the batteries from the battery compartment. In the same compartment, carefully see if there are mounting screws here, as a rule, this is their place. But often there may not be any screws at all. In this case, you can start dividing the remote into two halves.

For this, a suitable tool, such as a screwdriver, is slipped into the connecting seam. Some descriptions of such a procedure say that traces of chips and scratches may remain from the screwdriver. Therefore, it is safer in this regard to use a regular credit card, which in unlimited quantities are issued in any “magnet” or “pair”. The main thing is to get successfully to the first latch without breaking it, and then gradually and accurately open the rest.

After the remote control is open, the lower part can be set aside for now. At the top, the entire console will remain. The remote control with the bottom cover removed is shown in Figure 1.

Remote control with cover removed

Figure 1. Remote control with cover removed

Here we see the back of the circuit board. There is an IR LED on the left side, and the yellow square in the lower right corner is nothing but a ceramic resonator. Here are the contacts of the battery compartment and the only electrolytic capacitor on the entire console.

If during the check with the camera no signs of life were found, then you should immediately check the appearance of the LED and the resonator, inspect their solders. If they are oxidized or have ring cracks, then they should be re-soldered. It’s better not just to pierce with a soldering iron, but to remove these parts from the board, strip and tin the conclusions, and only then put them back in place.

If the printed circuit board is removed from the case, then under it there will be a rubber base with buttons, as shown in Figure 2.

The buttons, when pressed, close the pads on the printed circuit board

Figure 2. The buttons, when pressed, close the pads on the circuit board.

The board on the part side is shown in Figure 3.

Remote control board

Figure 3. Remote control board

Figure 3 shows the upper part of the rubber base; button pushers are located on it.

Top of rubber base with push buttons for remote control

Figure 4. Upper part of the rubber base with remote control push buttons

Mentioned pushers during assembly of the remote control are inserted into the sockets of the top cover (Figure 5), while being a fixing element of the rubber base.

DIY repair

Figure 5

In the figures, everything is shown fairly decent and clean, since shortly before that, the console underwent minor repairs. As a rule, any remote control opened for repair is a sight rather pathetic and even heartbreaking.


What can be seen inside the remote

The entire space where the rubber base with buttons is located is filled with a transparent sticky and viscous liquid that looks like an epoxy resin, but without hardener. This liquid is smeared with a neat thin layer, in places with small droplets. Even if you try, it’s not so good and accurate.

This sticky liquid is everywhere. On the upper and lower sides of the rubber base of the buttons, on the upper part of the housing with slots for buttons. The upper part of the printed circuit board with pads is also coated with this glue ...

The origin of this glue is the subject of discussion and even debate in the circles of repairmen. Some say that it is fat from the fingers of the hands, others that it is battery vapor. But why then the bottom of the board, where there are no parts, is not covered by these fumes?

The most likely version seems to be that these sticky compounds come from the rubber base itself. Rubber sweats, as it were, releasing plasticizers from itself, which indicates a violation of the technology for the production of rubber products. The only question is, why are there so many such substandard products? Indeed, in almost every remote control that gets into repair, it is precisely such a defect that is noticed.

These evaporated plasticizers are most often the cause of the failure of the remote control. Outwardly, such a defect manifests itself in the fact that the buttons cease to be “pressed”, you have to increase the applied force, but after a while this also does not lead to the passage of commands. You can reap as much as you like, for a long time, several times, but the channels do not switch, the volume is not regulated ...


Several repair methods

There are many recipes, tips and opinions on how to deal with this phenomenon. One source advises immediately to wipe all this disgrace with alcohol, gasoline or acetone, another says that in no case. Who to believe? I will share my own poor experience in the field of remote control repair; there were few clients, mainly relatives, neighbors and acquaintances, but the simplicity of the device and the repair allows us to draw certain conclusions.And if you still listen to what they write on the Internet ...

Once cleaning such a remote control with alcohol led to its complete failure. If just a few buttons (apparently the most frequently used) worked poorly before cleaning, then almost everything stopped working. Therefore, I had to resort to another repair method, but it was postponed in my memory that these buttons cannot be washed with alcohol.

A much better result, if the board has such a snotty look, can bring washing the board and rubber bands with buttons with not very hot water using a modern dishwashing detergent. It should be noted that one can also overdo it: if you wash the rubber base with very energetic movements and press harder, the result can be exactly the opposite. The graphite coating from the buttons will be washed off, and then you can press them later as much as you like, at the same time, without any fear that pressing the button will cause a channel switch or volume control.

If the graphite coating has not been washed off before, then it should be washed with a soft cloth, with gentle, soaking movements that will never erase the graphite coating. The inside of the case and the circuit board are best washed with a brush used to wash glass jars and bottles. It is very good if, before washing the snotty coating, the parts of the disassembled remote control for some time, 20 ... 30 minutes, lie in a detergent solution.

After washing, you should be patient, wait until the parts are dry and only after that assemble the remote control in the reverse order. If such a flushing gave a positive result, the remote control has earned, you can only rejoice at the result. Otherwise, you can offer several more repair methods.


What to do if the buttons are worn to the ground

Exits already exist for these situations: repair kits for repairing the remote control are sold. The bag contains a tube of glue and a tidy rubber patch with graphite coating. Just spread and paste where necessary. There are even instructions on how to stick. A more modern version of the repair kit is self-adhesive patch. Everything is very simple here. But in such cases, just rubbing the rubber buttons with alcohol or another solvent will not hurt.

But, unfortunately, it is not possible to buy such semi-finished products everywhere and not always, although the price of the question is simply ridiculous: where are we and where is the radio market ... In these cases, you have to use various improvised means. One of the best and most affordable materials is aluminum foil with a paper base of cigarette packs. It is glued quite reliably and simply with any glue of the “Moment” type or with super glue from small tubes.

Another option for repairing the remote control is to smear the buttons with conductive adhesives and varnishes, for example “Contact” or “Ellast”. Regarding this method, there are also many different opinions, which is not yet clear. Apparently, everything is simple: whoever worked out well praises and vice versa.

Of course, current prices for remote control are not large, and easier than to invent something, go and buy a new one. But it happens that the TV is so old that no modern remote control is suitable. Most likely it's time to buy a new TV with the remote control. Or still repair the old remote.

Boris Aladyshkin

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • DIY remote control repair. Part 1. Development History and Remote Control Device
  • AYCT-102 remote control for giving and home
  • Remote Control Switches
  • LED Lamp Repair - Replacing a LED in a failed lamp
  • Controlled sockets and switches ELRO

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: Michael | [quote]

     
     

    Possible reasons why the remote control may not work (from simple to complex): 1. The appliance itself is not turned on (TV, fan, etc.), 2. Perhaps you mistakenly took the remote control from other equipment, 3. The batteries in the remote control are exhausted, 4. Contact buttons are dirty, i.e.Before rushing to disassemble the remote control, check it on points 1 - 3. And so, the remote controls break down quite rarely, much more often the electrical appliances that they control break down.

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I wipe the rubber buttons with alcohol and warm water and soap. There is no graphite on the elastic bands; it is metallized rubber. If you take a tester, anyone, at the limit of x100 kOhm and touch the gum with probes, we will see a resistance of about 60-80 kOhm.

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: novel | [quote]

     
     

    cut off conductive rubber with a scalpel

    stick nickels from the donor

    donor rug with a worthless calculator - almost timeless

    stick on silicone sealant

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: electronic | [quote]

     
     

    Oh sure. There is still a flash, for the firmware of which you need a programmer. And a bunch of secrets that no one will share. Bring remotes, we will repair them for money)

    Or buy a new telly, music. center, etc.))

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: Stas Karpov | [quote]

     
     

    Quote: electronic
    Oh sure. There is still a flash, for the firmware of which you need a programmer. And a bunch of secrets that no one will share. Bring remotes, we will repair them for money) Or buy a new TV set, music. center, etc.))

    If a flash is covered, it is cheaper to throw it out than to repair, and a non-contact or a covered LED can be easily diagnosed.

    And with the proposal to buy a new TV set due to the lack of a remote control, you can safely go fuck.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I sincerely thank the author of the articleBoris Aladyshkin for useful and intelligible tips for repairing the remote control. Their implementation immediately gave a positive result.
    I wish him success, health and many years of life.

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: Sergei | [quote]

     
     

    And how often is the flash covered? I have a remote control from the car radio, at first one row of buttons stopped working, then in general I started pressing one button and executing a completely different command. a chip or whatever it is ... flooded with something like glass ... are such remotes generally repaired?

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: Boris Aladyshkin | [quote]

     
     

    Sergei, if the simplest actions indicated in the article and in the comments to it did not help, then it’s easiest to buy a new remote, there are universal or compatible remote controls. If a microcircuit is installed on the board, working in the RC-5 standard, you can try to replace it, since the encoding is changed by external switching of the corresponding microcircuit pins. If the chip on the board is flooded with black compound, then such a remote control, of course, cannot be repaired. Somewhere there was even a description of the adaptive remote control: a person did not like loud music in a cafe. So he invented the remote control, which “spied” and memorized the codes of “native” remote control. After that, it remained only to press the buttons and control the music center.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I just wash off everything (the board and the rubber with the contacts) with alcohol, and then I rub the contact surfaces of the buttons with graphite - with a simple pencil. The remote works great!

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: Andrew | [quote]

     
     

    Rubbed the board and gum vodka, it worked.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I have 2 remote controllers on 2 different TVs. One pdu earned normally, after cleaning with alcohol and retouching with a simple pencil, the second did not react at all.

     
    Comments:

    # 12 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Yes, the cigarette foil option has become very effective. The remote works fine. I pasted “Moment” small pieces of foil with an arbitrary shape onto the buttons. I wonder how long this lasts.

     
    Comments:

    # 13 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I heard that the contact surface of the board is oxidized, washed, removed the oxide film with an eraser, but for a long time it was not enough. They say you can still handle the contacts with conductive grease until you try it - I'm looking for grease. Has anyone tried it?

     
    Comments:

    # 14 wrote: Rinat | [quote]

     
     

    The volume and channel switching did not work on my remote control.Did according to the proposed method: warm water with a detergent - it worked. Many thanks.

     
    Comments:

    # 15 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I have 3 TV remotes working without problems for years. But the remote control from the World Vision T40 receiver has to be disassembled after 1-3 weeks - I clean the pads with a soft eraser and wipe with a cloth. Conducting rubber seems to be of poor quality, as smears and possibly sticks to the contacts of the printed circuit board.

     
    Comments:

    # 16 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good result!
    I checked the button that did not work with the phone’s camera.
    Using a nail polish, I glued a small piece of food foil onto a broken button. I checked the work with the same phone camera.
    All OK.

     
    Comments:

    # 17 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    A repair kit or a donor elastic band from other equipment is a good thing, but not always available. Or, for example, there is no sealant (glue) to stick new nickels on the remote control buttons. What if one of the most frequently used buttons doesn’t work? I did the following. Virtually every remote control has buttons that are not used at all or that have no functions. That is, such buttons are in good condition. You can take, cut out a button from an elastic band that has stopped working or is stuck, and also cut a button that is not in use, that is, in good condition, and swap these buttons.

     
    Comments:

    # 18 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    THANKS, BORIS! THE REMOTE LAYED 7 YEARS AND STOPPED. AFTER YOUR PROCEDURES EARNED ALMOST ALL BUTTONS (EXCEPT ON)

     
    Comments:

    # 19 wrote: Novel | [quote]

     
     

    But two rows of buttons (((
    I checked everything, cleaned everything, it did not help. Campaign chip covered.

     
    Comments:

    # 20 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Thanks for the helpful tips!

     
    Comments:

    # 21 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    An excellent method with warm water and detergent, two remotes come to life. Many thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 22 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good afternoon!

    One row of buttons does not work (1,2,3). Everyone else is working fine. Tell me, please, what is the reason?

     
    Comments:

    # 23 wrote: Tok | [quote]

     
     

    I applied the post to the repair of the radiotelephone, when I opened it I found that the board and the inside of the buttons were coated with sticky resin. Washed everything neatly with fairies. Works like new. I dried it under the fan, it took 30 minutes, everything about everything.

     
    Comments:

    # 24 wrote: talian | [quote]

     
     

    Remarkable advice of Stas Karpov 5 - Electronics 4. They talk here and not smart.

     
    Comments:

    # 25 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Good day to all! Brought two copies with a problem of one for two. Remote controls. Diodes respond to tapping in front of the camera. But on the TVs themselves there is no reaction. I checked everything on the board. The reason was commonplace - under the central microcircuit, fluid collected. I soldered all the paws of the contacts again and both two earned. ps: when you solder you should hear hissing. In my cases, two contacts hissed. Thanks for attention.

     
    Comments:

    # 26 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The foil helped. Thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 27 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    I came across a remote control with completely washed out rubber bands, to which no glue sticks, aluminum foil does not stick on Velcro, and even construction tape does not stick. The telly is old but good. Who has a solution?

    Solution found. After numerous unsuccessful attempts to glue the foil to this enchanted rubber (most likely it is not rubber, but some kind of polymer), a simple and brilliant idea came up. I pierced the gum with copper wire !!! Works like new. He sewed with a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm in 4 threads. Needle to choose the minimum diameter. One seam on each button is enough. Outside twisted the ends and under the lid they are not visible. Of course, over the years, copper can oxidize; if you don’t like it, let it sew with a gold thread.

     
    Comments:

    # 28 wrote: X-system | [quote]

     
     

    "Unlike batteries, batteries are not afraid of short-circuit, and if you can measure the current within 200..500mA, then everything is in order."

    Even as they are afraid!

     
    Comments:

    # 29 wrote: mordazvon | [quote]

     
     

    I read the comments. What can I say. I tried everything! Rem kits are not for sale and sellers look at me with their eyes for five cents, glued all kinds of garbage - aluminum pieces of paper, copper coins - everything starts to peel off after a week. Rubbed with a corandash - not for a long time for a maximum of 2-3 weeks. Even the glue dripped on the button, crushed graphite and sprinkled on the glue, dried up. Conclusion - for a couple of days, graphite begins to pour in and wedge one of the buttons! There is only one conclusion from the above - to buy a new remote control !! P.S. Originals come only with equipment, and Chinese - for two or three years!

     
    Comments:

    # 30 wrote: Vasiliy | [quote]

     
     

    The foil fell off. Solution: stationery staples are small. We bend the letter P, cut a couple of mm in height, bend it a little to the center and stick into the buttons. Remove the varnish layer from them. Works. The countdown has gone.))

     
    Comments:

    # 31 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The Philips TV remote control began to work only on empty batteries. It doesn’t work with planted people, it doesn’t work with new ones. There is radiation on all batteries. The battery contacts are clean (the lazy one is almost new).

    Tested on a laboratory PSU. Powering from 2.5 V to 2.82 V - everything is amazing. Above and below - does not work (radiation is always visible))) Thoughts?

     
    Comments:

    # 32 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Boris enlightened to the fullest. I am a system engineer, I change everything in blocks, but there are more difficult tasks. How can I share about TVs, repair, I know, but here's the story says nothing .......

     
    Comments:

    # 33 wrote: Vladnik | [quote]

     
     

    Remote control for TV box with TV control keys. When you press any button on the remote control, the On / Off button on the TV control lights up and blinks, the TV box does not turn on and is not controlled. Is this a malfunction of the remote? Is being repaired? Or change the remote? Thanks!

     
    Comments:

    # 34 wrote: Sergey Matskevich | [quote]

     
     

    Lots of text. In most cases, you just need to 1. open the remote control; 2. wrap a wet towel over a cotton swab (for example: “Ice Age”); 3. clean from a transparent sealant, which over time has spread over the board's areas, the areas on the board and the spots on the buttons; 4. Close the remote control and insert the batteries. The sealant is used for a closed button airbag against simultaneous pressing, sticking and for the necessary elasticity.

     
    Comments:

    # 35 wrote: Michael | [quote]

     
     

    The remote control from the TV works at a distance of about 1.5 m from the screen (IR receiver). But at a distance greater than the aforementioned, the TV does not respond at all to all the buttons on the remote control. What thoughts will be?

     
    Comments:

    # 36 wrote: Alexander | [quote]

     
     

    Today I decided to connect a satellite TV receiver. and the remote does not work. I disassembled, and there this sticky liquid. Thoroughly wiped everything with alcohol, cleaned the contact spots with a zero skin. In modern remotes, the conductive material is in the mass of the contact button. So you can not be afraid that the skin will erase the graphite layer, it will only remove the oxide layer. Assembled, everything works fine.

     
    Comments:

    # 37 wrote: Vlad | [quote]

     
     

    The remote control does not work at a distance of more than 1 meter from the screen from the TV if the capacitor of the power filter of the IR receiver circuit of the TV is not working.

     
    Comments:

    # 38 wrote: Victor | [quote]

     
     

    So far, there is nothing better than sticking pieces of foil from packs of cigarettes on the digs with a thin double-sided tape. No silicone adhesives from kits and other things will last long on this polymer. Lubrication - these are plasticizers coming out. In Chinese remotes this is not, but due to the fact that there is little plasticizer, the buttons fall out.

     
    Comments:

    # 39 wrote: Igor | [quote]

     
     

    Help soldering LED.

     
    Comments:

    # 40 wrote: Mansour | [quote]

     
     

    Hello. There is a radio-controlled outlet. Consumer in the garage, turn on and off the house.Everything works fine, but there is one caveat: it is not clear, it is not visible on the remote control, is the consumer turned on or not? Something can be done in such a situation, for example, put the control LED on the power outlet?

     
    Comments:

    # 41 wrote: Boris Nikolaevich | [quote]

     
     

    After cleaning, the remote control stopped working. After the "dancing with tambourines" it turned out that the joystick button must be set in a certain position. There are four guides, three of the same size, about the fourth wider. After proper installation, it worked. Maybe someone will come in handy ...