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Home-made step-down transformer for damp rooms

 

In damp rooms, garage boxes in the "pit", and other safety rooms, it is required to install lamps with 12 Volt lamps. To power such lamps, a step-down transformer is used.

In addition to conventional transformers, recently appeared on sale electronic pulse transformers. However, when used to power the luminaires, a voltage of 12 volts with a long wire length of the lamp starts to burn dimly, at full heat. Let's try to solve this problem.

Recall physics. The power of an incandescent lamp is 60 watts, the voltage from the transformer is 12 volts, from here we calculate the current: 60/12 = 5 amperes. If a current of 5 Amperes flows through 220 Volts, then the power will be 1.1 kW. With a large current, a voltage drop occurs, the voltage drop depends on the length of the wire and its cross section. A voltage drop of 5-6 volts at a voltage of 220 volts is not so noticeable, but at 12 volts this is half the voltage.

I see three solutions to this problem. Firstly, to use light bulbs of lower power. Secondly, increase the cross section of the wire and reduce its length. Third, increase the supply voltage.

The first solution is obvious, if all the same the 60 W bulb shines in full light, maybe you should use a 40 W bulb and it will shine brighter. Well, if you find or make your own LED lamp, then it will be even better.

Home-made step-down transformer for damp rooms

When powering the lamps from a step-down transformer, the wire must be taken with a copper section of at least 2.5 mm2, and preferably 4 mm2 or even 6 mm2. An aluminum wire should not be used, since aluminum has a higher resistivity than copper and the voltage drop will be much larger.

Well, the most radical way is to increase the voltage from the transformer. This method will help anyway. Please note that it is necessary to increase the voltage for each wire coming from the transformer individually, because if you select a voltage on a long wire, for example, 18 Volts and the bulb lights up normally, then it will burn out on a short wire.

For a conventional transformer, we take the wire the same as its secondary winding and wrap it over the transformer winding. We select the number of turns, as mentioned above, depending on the wire going from the transformer to the bulb.

We do it this way, measure out a piece of wire of two meters, connect one end of it to one terminal of the transformer, wrap several turns with the other and connect it to the wire that goes to the light bulb, the free terminal of the transformer also connects to the other wire of the light bulb.

Home-made step-down transformer for damp rooms

We turn on the transformer in the network and see how the light is on. If the light bulb burns dimmer than before, then we connect the end of the wire that we used connected to the secondary winding of the transformer to its other terminal, and also switch the wire going to the light bulb. We turn on the transformer again, we look at how the bulb is lit, if there is not enough brightness, we press a few more turns, and so on, until the bulb burns normally. After that, we assemble the transformer thoroughly and use it.

Read also on this topic:Isolation transformer in a home electrician workshop

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • How to make a transformer from a magnetic starter
  • How to determine unknown transformer parameters
  • Halogen Transformers
  • Electronic Transformers: Purpose and Typical Use
  • How to choose a wire cross section for 12 volt lighting networks

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: Dmitriy | [quote]

     
     

    The article demonstrates the method of "off the bullet" - no calculations.If done correctly, an electrotechnical calculation is performed at the secondary school level: the load resistance is taken into account (based on power at rated voltage), cable resistance based on the cross section according to the tables that can be found on the Internet. According to the calculation results, the voltage drop across the load is determined; even the number of turns of the transformer must be calculated (even in childhood, before rewinding the transformer, I made a rough calculation, serious work is not done that way). Transformers, by the way, differ only slightly in cost from switching power supplies, which are almost completely capable of working with strong input voltage drops, maintaining stable output, built-in electronic overload protection, and also often have output voltage adjustment within small limits (5-10%) . Adjustment of the tuning resistor in the switching power supply is easier to rewind the transformer by an order of magnitude, and is performed in seconds. In practice, they try to minimize or increase the cable cross-section in order to reduce losses (each volt of the “additive” is proportional to the cable heating loss) in order to minimize or increase the cable section with a significant load. It is much more profitable to use aluminum - when using an aluminum cable of the same resistance as copper (it turns out about a step more, i.e. instead of 4-6 mm, instead of 16-25, etc.), its cost is several times less. And if the resistances of the two cables are equal, the losses on them will be the same. The real disadvantage of aluminum is its strong oxidizability, which increases the requirements for the quality of compounds, and makes it necessary to use special techniques (aluminum-copper tips, conductive paste, sealing compounds, etc.); aluminum also cannot simply be combined with copper, without intermediary metals. Another drawback is the poor ability to bend (you need few bends in one place to break it). If you take a copper and aluminum cable of equal cost, the aluminum will be much larger in cross section and less resistance, and the losses on it will be much lower. Also, with a significant load, they try to apply a voltage of 24V instead of 12V, the current strength and losses in the cable are reduced by half. 24V is also a low and safe voltage, and there is a wide range of electrical equipment on it ...