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Folk aluminum soldering tips

 

Folk aluminum soldering tipsThe problems associated with brazing aluminum are explained by the fact that the surface of this metal is covered with a thin, flexible and very strong oxide film - Al2O3. It is not possible to remove it by mechanical methods, because when a clean surface of aluminum comes into contact with air or water, it instantly again becomes covered with an oxide film. Conventional fluxes do not dissolve oxide.

For mechanical cleaning of oxide, it is recommended to clean the surface under a film of oil, but in this case, the oil should be completely dehydrated, for which it needs to be heated for some time at a temperature of 150-200 ° C.

It is recommended to use mineral oils, preferably vacuum VM-1, VM-4.

There are tips for using rifle alkaline oil for this purpose, how effective it is is difficult to say, because probably if the oil contains alkali, then water too. There are soldering irons in which a steel scraper is mounted on the sting for cleaning.

It is also proposed to clean the surface with coarse iron filings, which are rubbed over the surface under a layer of oil or rosin with a soldering iron tip, solder, sawdust here act as an abrasive, tinning occurs at the same time, I tried this method, the connection is weak, apparently due to spot tinning aluminum.

Probably a more reliable soldering can be obtained by tinning aluminum over a sublayer of copper electrolytically deposited on the surface of aluminum. Perhaps, for the same purpose, a sublayer of zinc can be used, which is applied in the same way as in the aluminum chromium recipe. More reliably, the oxide film is removed using special active fluxes.

It is also good to combine mechanical surface treatment with the use of active fluxes.

The following are some flux recipes.

1. Oleic acid - 20 g. Lithium iodide (LiI) 2-3 g. Chemistry and Life, 11/1988, p. 78

2. Zinc chloride (ZnCl2) 85% 90% 95% Ammonium chloride (NH4Cl) 10% 8% - Sodium fluoride (NaF) 5% 2% 5%

3. Sodium chloride (NaCl) 6.5% Sodium sulfate (Na2SO4) 4% Lithium chloride (LiCl) 23.5% Potassium chloride (KCl) 56% Cryolite (Na3AlF6) 10%

4. Flux F59A Cadmium borofluoride (Cd [BF4] 2) 10% Zinc borofluoride (Zn [BF4] 2) 3% Ammonium borftride (NH4BF4) 5% Triethanolamine 82%

5. Sodium fluoride (NaF) 10% Zinc chloride (ZnCl2) 3% Lithium chloride (LiCl) 5% Potassium chloride (KCl) 82%

6. ... To the well-known methods of brazing aluminum, I propose to add another, very simple. The cleaned and fat-free soldering place is covered with a soldering iron with a thin layer of rosin, and then immediately rubbed with a tablet of analgin (benalgin). After that, the surface is treated with POS-50 solder (or close to it), pressing the tip of a slightly overheated soldering iron to it with little effort. The residual flux is washed off from the tinned place with acetone, warmed up again carefully and the flux is washed off again. Soldering parts is carried out in the usual way.

A. GLOTOV p. Galievka, Voronezh region (Radio 5-86, p. 37)

7. An excerpt from a book about soldering aluminum wires with a copper method of immersion in a bath with solder. The following is a description of the operations for making connections.

From the ends of the coils, the enamel insulation is removed from the aluminum wire over a length of 60-70 mm, from the ends of the copper wires the braid and rubber insulation are removed over a length of 35-40 mm, the bare wires are stripped to a shine.

Enamel removal from wires with a diameter of up to 1 mm is carried out with a knife, from wires with a diameter of more than 1 mm - with metal brushes rotating towards each other. These brushes with a diameter of 250-300 mm are drawn from steel wires with a diameter of 0.08-0.1 mm protruding from the mandrel to a length of 50-60 mm; each brush is rotated by a 0.6 kW electric motor with a rotation speed of 3,000 rpm. The final cleaning is done with a glass grinding sand.

The cleaned ends are thoroughly wiped with a calico swab moistened with acetone or gasoline. The interval between stripping and tinning or welding should not exceed 2-3 hours.

All the stripped ends of the wires are tinned, with the exception of those welded by contact heating. The ends of aluminum coils are dipped into a bath with a F59A flux, and the ends of copper wires (leads) with a KSp flux. Then the ends are immersed in a bath with molten solder P250A with a temperature of 310-320 ° C or P300A with a temperature of 370-380 ° C for 3-10 seconds until the cessation of steam and smoke.

The served ends are shaken off to remove excess solder, no later than 1-1.5 hours later they are cleaned with a hair brush of the residues of flux F59A, washed first in hot running water, then in cold running water and wiped dry with a clean calico swab. Residues of KCp flux after tinning are not removed. It is best to solder aluminum using a special ultrasonic soldering iron.

See also article about the use of solder fat.

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • How to solder aluminum
  • How to learn to solder
  • Solders and soldering fluxes
  • How to solder
  • Connection by welding aluminum wires

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Soldering aluminum cores with a soldering iron is not practiced. There is a laborious method of tinning. Lubricate with gum, sprinkle with steel filings and rub with a soldering iron rubbing solder to a second sweat! So you can tarnish part of the aluminum core with a spore. The aluminum busbars and the aluminum sheath of the power cable are tinned by heating with a torch, using solder grease and A1 solder, then tinned to the top with POS60 solder - (tin-lead solder -60% lead 40% tin) POS 30 is considered to be refractory and is rarely used. And soldering with pure tin cracks over time.
    For copper, it is preferable to use rosin or solder fat. The canister flux is convenient for tinning boards. POS solder 40 or 60. Pure tin is rarely undesirable. There is a universal tin-solder solder for soldering small parts.

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: Sergei | [quote]

     
     

    You torment soldering aluminum with a soldering iron ... Well, if you nevertheless solder, then you can also with alcohol-rosin solution. I once did this: I bought a 300W soldering iron in the form of an ax, drilled a hole from the side of the butt so that it would turn out and throw solder there. When the soldering iron warms up, the solder in it becomes fluid. You take twists, treat them with alcohol-rosin solution and alternately dip them into this solder. It turns out a very nice soldering.