Categories: Sharing experience, Electrical connection of equipment
Number of views: 50160
Comments on the article: 6

How to connect a cooker hood to an electrical network

A cooker hood is an integral element of a kitchen interior. A range hood provides a comfortable stay for people in the room, clearing the air of unwanted odors and burning. If you need to connect a cooker hood, a lot of questions arise, one of which is how to connect a cooker hood to an electrical network.

The connection of the hood is carried out, as a rule, in a conventional power outlet. Therefore, it is recommended to provide a socket for connecting the hood when performing electrical wiring replacement work. Consider the features of installing a socket for a kitchen hood.

The power consumption of the cooker hood is relatively small, so it is not practical to pull a separate wiring line from the distribution panel. The outlet in this case can be connected in a junction box. If during installation electrical wiring in the kitchen it is not planned to install an intermediate junction box, the outlet for exhaust can be connected by a cable from another outlet.

Which cable (wire) to choose to connect the hood outlet? Power consumption of a kitchen hood 100-400 W, load current, respectively, no more than two amperes. In this case, you can choose a cable with a cross section of 1-1.5 square meters. mm, which will provide a margin for the load and in the future, if necessary, it will be possible to include another household electrical appliance in this outlet.

If you connect the outlet to one of the kitchen outlets (with a loop), then you can not purchase a cable (wire) separately, but use the rest of the cable used to lay the wiring lines for other outlets.

In the event that the load on the outlet to which the outlet for the hood is planned to be connected is large, it is not recommended to make intermediate contact connections (for branching the wiring line supplying the hood).

In this case, you can initially lay the cable in such a way that it is enough to connect in both outlets, that is, lay the cable to one outlet, strip it without cutting, connect to this outlet and conduct to the outlet that supplies the cooker hood.

In the event that the wiring is already mounted, and you need install outlet for hoods, the most acceptable way is to connect the outlet with a cable. If the kitchen is repaired and furniture is installed, ditch the wall will not work. In this case, the best option is to purchase plastic cable channel.

The modern assortment of cable channels allows you to choose the most optimal option for your interior. For example, you can choose a plastic cable channel “wood-like”, which will fit into the interior design, and will not stand out from the kitchen furniture.

A branch of the wiring line of one of the sockets for connecting a cooker hood can be done using terminal blocks or any other way of connecting the conductors (soldering, welding, crimping), depending on the availability of free space in the installation box, where the branching line is wired.

You can also purchase a power outlet with two pairs of contacts and connect a power supply line and a line that needs to be connected to supply the kitchen hood to this outlet.

Look on the topic: Connection of an electric stove and a washing machine in the TN-C system

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

Cooker hood repair

How to install and connect an additional outlet to the wiring

Examples of layout of outlets, switches and lights in the kitchen - field ...

How to connect an induction cooker - useful tips

How to audit the electrical wiring of an apartment

Comments:

# 1 wrote: | [quote]

Briefly and clearly.But still a few questions arose. 1. At what height from the floor surface do we install a socket for the hood? 2. What is the code of the IP socket used for this unit (meaning hood)? 3. Do I understand correctly in the meaning of the article that the outlet for the hood is best installed on the side of the hood, and not behind it? 4. Some electricians take hood power from an electric stove outlet. Is this permissible or better to avoid this process? 5. I understand that the protection of the line to which the cooker hood will be connected (the line of kitchen outlets) should be carried out using the following devices - residual current devices with a 30mA type AC residual current circuit breaker and a 16A type C circuit breaker. And if fuses with a fuse insert are used on this line , then is it possible to connect the hood to this line? That's probably all the questions. I ask you to excuse me if these questions seemed to you rather childish and stupid. With all respect, Andrew.

Comments:

# 2 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

AndrewI’ll try to answer your questions.

1. In this case, the length of the supply wire of the hood should be considered. Also note the location of the hood. If it is located in close proximity to the sink, the outlet should be installed at such a height as to prevent splashing water. Well, and no less important is the question of aesthetics.

2. Regarding the degree of protection of the socket housing. Choose an ordinary household outlet with a degree of protection IP20. A kitchen is a room in which the humidity level is within normal limits.

3. With regard to the installation location, I think that there is no fundamental difference in this case. The main thing is that there should be free access to the installed outlet in case it becomes necessary to replace it (repair).

4. I think that connecting the outlet that supplies the hood to the electrical wiring line of the electric oven is the best option. In any case, it is impractical to conduct a separate wiring line from the apartment shield to power one hood. You can also connect an outlet for drawing from another existing outlet or from a junction box (if any). Choose the method that is most convenient for you.

5. To ensure reliable protection of a person from electric shock, it is better to install an RCD with a differential response current of not more than 10 mA. But if the wiring line feeds several kitchen outlets, then the residual current device must be selected with a high tripping current, since a protective device with a threshold of 10 mA will operate falsely. That is, in this case, it is necessary to take into account the natural leakage of current on the wiring lines and household appliances included in the network. As for the rated current of the circuit breaker, in this case, one should be guided by the load current on this wiring line. Also, the rated data of the socket and cable (wire) of this wiring line should be considered. The main task of the circuit breaker is to protect the structural elements of the wiring from damage as a result of exceeding the current above acceptable values. The type of circuit breaker in this case does not matter, since the starting currents of the exhaust motor are small, so you can use machines with class B.

Fuses are yesterday. I would prefer circuit breakers to protect the wiring lines. But, in any case, fuses with a fusible insert are also protective devices that, in the event of an overload or short circuit, will break the circuit. Therefore, the presence of fuses in the wiring diagram cannot serve as a reason for refusing to connect the hood to this wiring line. Pay attention to the absence of "bugs" on fusible inserts. If any, then no wiring protection is involved.

Comments:

# 3 wrote: | [quote]

Thank you so much for your detailed answers.

Comments:

# 4 wrote: | [quote]

Wire cross section less than 1.5 mm2 is prohibited by the rules.

Comments:

# 5 wrote: | [quote]

Alexander, please give me a link to the PUE, where the use of copper cables less than 1.5 mm2 is prohibited.

Comments:

# 6 wrote: | [quote]

MaksimovM,
I would not connect the hood to the socket of a single-phase electric plate, because the cable that feeds it usually has a core cross section of at least 4 square mm2, holds a current of up to 38 A, and is protected by a 40 A difavtomat, and the branch to the hood is carried out by a cable 1.5 mm2, which holds up to 19 A. It’s more correct to install a mini-shield at the output from the stove’s outlet, in which to set the machine to 10A (or 6A, select by power,), and already bring this line to the hood outlet.

Amendment, 4 sq. Mm with our cables with a lowered cross-section, it is definitely necessary to protect the machine with 25 A., and 6 sq. Mm - AB at 32A