Unclassified secrets of nailing

Some simple tricks that will greatly facilitate your work and keep your nerves when working with a hammer and nails.

It seems to be a simple job - driving nails. But for some people, this procedure is quite a difficult task. And, when it is necessary to urgently hammer a nail, according to the law of world swine, no one who knows how to do this is nearby. And so here are some tips for beginners to nail

1) Hold the hammer by the end of the handle. When striking, look at the nail head. Then the nail will not bend and go aside, and you will not hit the fingers.

2) A long nail must be held with pliers in the middle so that it does not bend when hammering.

3) Do not try to hammer a nail into a birch or oak board - use better self-tapping screws. Or go through drill with a thin drill a nail-driving place.

4) Lubricate the tip of the nail with machine (or sunflower) oil.

5) Do not try to hammer a nail in or near a knot. First go this place with a drill.

6) Do not hit a lot of nails side by side on the same line - split the board.

7) If you need to nail a wooden part in a hard-to-reach place, first hammer all the nails into the necessary places of the part so that their tips extend 1-2 cm from the opposite side, holding the part on a workbench or on the floor. And only then nail the part.

8) Each nail has its own hammer. Joiner's (most ordinary) hammers come in four sizes:

MST-1 - handle length - 25-28 cm, working part length 9 cm, weight 0.25 kg. For driving wallpaper and parcel nails (up to 40 mm).

MST-2 - handle length - 30-32 cm, working part length 11 cm, weight 0.5 kg.

For hammering larger nails, but in fact it is the most multi-purpose hammer.

MST-3 - handle length - 30-32 cm, length of the working part 12 cm, weight 0.8 kg.

A little heavier than the MCT-2, but the same multi-purpose.

MST-4 - the length of the handle is 35-37 cm, the length of the working part is up to 13 cm, weight is 1 kg. For driving large (80-100 mm) nails, as well as dowels into the wall.

The above does not mean that you can not beat the nail with a fourth hammer, just use your “own” size the most conveniently.

9) To hammer a nail into a thin bar, bite off its tip. Then he will not split the bar.

10) The less you hit the nail, the stronger it will hold. Start with 3-4 wrist strokes. When the nail goes a little deeper into the workpiece, drive it with two or three elbows.

11) A connection is considered to be strong when the nail is deepened into the object to which the workpiece is nailed, by 0.3 - 0.5 of the length of the nail.

12) If it is necessary to nail a nail close to the edge of the board, it is necessary to compact the wood at the place of its driving. This can be done with a hammer and punch. Then the edge of the board does not crack.

13) To deepen the nail head into the surface for subsequent plastering and protect the surface from dents caused by the hammer, use a punch - attach it to the nail head and hit it with a hammer.

14) To hammer a nail in an inaccessible place, take a bolt, screw a nut on it so that it protrudes from the end of the bolt by 2-3 turns of thread. Put the bolt with a nut to the nail and beat.

15) To nail the telephone or radio wiring, first pierce the wire with a nail in the middle so that the nail does not touch the wires of the wire. Press the wire against the wall, holding it in a taut position and hammer the nail without touching it (the nail) with your hands. Do not hammer the nail to the end - the cap should protrude 0.5-1.5 mm above the wire.

16) It is easier to hammer a nail into wet wood than into dry wood.