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Power supply and bathroom lighting

 

Power supply and bathroom lightingAccording to the classification adopted in the PUE, the bathroom in any apartment is, if not particularly dangerous, at least a room with increased danger. This means that the likelihood that a person will be shocked in the bathroom is high, and the consequences in the event of such a shock will be more severe.

Higher danger implies greater responsibility and requires us to take additional safety measures when installation and wiring of the bathroom. For rooms with increased danger, the following measures are recommended:

- protective grounding, the introduction of a third, protective conductor PE;

- use of protection devices against leakage currents - RCD or differential circuit breakers.

For bathrooms, both measures are mandatory. Many also consider the requirement for a hidden electrical wiring device in the bathroom. However, there is one caveat in the EMP in this regard, according to which open wiring in rooms with increased danger is allowed if a special cable that has undergone special certification is used.

In any case, beloved by all electricians VVGng cable for open wiring in the bathroom is not suitable, so it is better to opt for hidden wiring. Moreover, it looks aesthetically pleasing.

bathroom lightingSo, the wiring is hidden. Lighting circuit - VVGNG 3 * 1,5 cable, socket circuit - VVGNG 3 * 2,5 cable. To lay the cable, the walls can be drilled, or you can simply fix the cable on the wall before tiling. You can use ordinary wall plugs for this. The tile adhesive is usually thick enough to hide the flat cable underneath.

If a slatted or stretch ceiling is supposed in the bathroom - this, of course, is only at hand for us. Firstly, you can set beautiful Spotlightsmaking the lighting as uniform as possible. And secondly, without bothering yourself, you can lay the cable for these lamps on the ceiling in corrugated pipesecuring it to clips or mounting strips.

By the way, a variety of boxes, often mounted in the bathroom to conceal plumbing communications, are also quite suitable for mounting the cable in them all in the same corrugation.

To have junction boxes in the bathroom should not be, with the exception of the box included in the potential equalization system, which will be discussed below.

If possible, it is better not to have switches in the bathroom. However, if you really need it, the switch in the bathroom should:

- have a degree of protection of at least IP44;

- be located at a distance from the bathtub or shower (ideally, at a distance of at least three meters);

- controlled by a cord or remote control (then it can be placed under the ceiling).

Outlets in the bathroom would be undesirable, but today you can’t do without them in any way. It is necessary to supply power to the washing machine, leave a socket for an electric shaver and you never know what else. Therefore, one or two sockets are always needed. We also place them away from the bathtub or shower and certainly connect to the network with an RCD. The degree of protection of the sockets is the same - IP44, a splash guard on the spring is required.

Regulators of underfloor heating, if any, are located at the level of outlets in height at the entrance inside the bathroom. Do not forget that a self-heating cable can be placed only in that part of the floor that will not be covered by any plumbing devices and nothing at all.

bathroom lightingFixtures for the bathroom is better to choose low voltage. And in any case, it is better to refrain from using 220 volt lamps without a standard ground contact.Single luminaires are often placed above the entrance to avoid splashing water on the ceiling or lamp. Spotlights are arranged in random order above the free space.

About RCD, so necessary in the bathroom, many know. However, not everyone knows that RCDs are different. In particular, an RCD with an AC characteristic will be effective only against AC shock. But the same washing machines today are microprocessor devices using direct current obtained using semiconductor rectifier devices. To protect against such current, RCD characteristics A should be used. The optimal RCD rating for the bathroom is 30 milliamps.

Potential equalization system has a special meaning for the bathroom. Cramped space and high humidity lead to the fact that the likelihood of simultaneous contact with good electrical contact to two metal structures that are normally not under voltage is very high. And if a potential difference arises on these two structures, then such a touch can easily become the last in your life.

Therefore, we create an additional potential equalization system for the bathroom, which will include:

- PE conductor connected to the grounding bus in the apartment panel;

- metal cases of appliances - a washing machine, a heating radiator, a boiler, and the like;

- metal pipes - risers - hot and cold water;

- metal bath and sink.

All this must be electrically connected to the PE conductor, which is specially brought into the bathroom for this purpose. Moreover, the fact that, say, the washing machine is already grounded through the corresponding contacts of the outlet, does not matter. This is done, first of all, for equalizing potentials, and not for grounding.

Connections of the potential equalization system can be made using a flexible wire PV 3 1 * 6 in yellow-green insulation.

Power supply and bathroom lightingYou can mount this wire as well as the rest of the wiring. When connected to a bathtub, sink, washing machine, the wire can be terminated with cable lugs. You can use regular grounding places for this or drill special holes with a diameter of 6 mm.

To connect to the pipes, it is necessary to use special clamps with a screw clamp for the wire. Then there will be no need for the tip. Before installing the clamp, the pipe must be cleaned to pure metal.

The conductors of the additional potential equalization system should be connected in a single branch box of the bathroom, which can be placed anywhere where it will not be evident. Behind the sink, for example.

Difficulties in creating a potential equalization system arise if the line in which the wiring is mounted is two-wire. After all, then there is simply nowhere to pull the main wire of PE. In this case, we find out whether our apartment electrical panel. Such information can be obtained from the organization responsible for the operation and repair of the building where your apartment is located. Two ways are possible further:

1. If the shield is grounded, pull the PE wire away from it. You can completely remake the apartment wiring into three wires by connecting the PE bus to the metal housing of the apartment panel.

2. If there is no separate grounding (and this, unfortunately, is a rather common situation), then a full-fledged potential equalization system cannot be performed. However, in this case, it will not be out of place to connect the electrical appliance bodies, the bathtub, the sink and the hot water riser to the cold water riser using the same wire and clamps with ferrules. Firstly, in this way the potential of these conductors is balanced and simultaneous touch becomes safe. And secondly, the cold water pipeline still has a fairly good connection to the ground and in case of danger can play the role of a grounding device.

 

See also at bgv.electricianexp.com:

  • Fixtures for the bathroom
  • Equalization Systems
  • Outlets in the bathroom
  • How to make the washing machine not shock
  • Features of installation of electrical wiring and connection of household electrical appliances in ...

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    Comments:

    # 1 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Quote: “All this must be electrically connected to the PE conductor, specially brought into the bathroom for this purpose. Moreover, the fact that, say, the washing machine is already grounded through the corresponding contacts of the outlet, does not matter. This is done, first of all, for equalization potentials, not for grounding. "

    Unclear. It turns out that the housing of the washing machine is already connected to the PE conductor, but will it need to be connected to ground again?

     
    Comments:

    # 2 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    The first thing you need in the bathroom is safety! All electrical appliances used in the bathroom must be waterproof and kept out of the reach of children. When installing lighting in the bathroom, always check whether a particular lighting fixture meets the safety requirements for a given room. It is very important to call a qualified electrician for electrical work in the bathroom!

     
    Comments:

    # 3 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Quote: "the cold water pipeline still has a fairly good connection to the ground and in case of danger can play the role of a grounding device."

    It turns out that I have a washing machine, for example, it will give out to the housing 220 and through the pipe hall. the same water will be at the neighbor’s, respectively, between the pipe hall. water and, for example, sewage, the neighbor can "fry", and I go to "places not so remote"?

     
    Comments:

    # 4 wrote: For sel64 | [quote]

     
     

    If everything is done correctly and connected, including the sewer and the cold water pipe, to the potential equalization system, then where does the neighbor have 220 between the cold pipe and the sewer, if you have all of them connected to one system?

     
    Comments:

    # 5 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Nowadays, a cold water pipeline from a metal pipe is quite rare. Usually in apartments, plastic or metal-plastic pipes that do not have a connection to the ground are preferred. The same applies to the sewer pipeline: cast iron can only be found in old pipelines, new ones are mounted with plastic pipes. Therefore, a grounding device with these pipelines will not work.

     
    Comments:

    # 6 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    And if, by coincidence, 220 V from the substation or neighbors will go on the "ground"?

     
    Comments:

    # 7 wrote: MaksimovM | [quote]

     
     

    Artyomif grounding is made in accordance with the standards, then all potential will go to earth. Grounding is designed to divert hazardous potential, thereby protecting a person from electric shock. Another question is whether the grounding in the house complies with the standards.

    For added safety against electric shock, it is necessary to install an RCD or a difavtomat. It is possible to carry out individual grounding of electrical wiring (TT system) as an addition to the main grounding system. In this case, when a zero break in the electrical network, the phase does not fall on the protective conductor. It is also necessary to carry out equalization of potentials - to connect all metal elements on which the appearance of an electric potential is possible with an earthing switch.

     
    Comments:

    # 8 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    Socket group 2.5 mm? - a separate cable from the flap goes to the washing machine. Sockets have 16a. 1.5 mm is enough.

     
    Comments:

    # 9 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    All safety measures indicated here fully comply with the requirements of the EMP and SNiP.
    It's right. Although it is expensive to implement in conditions in a long-running apartment.
    However, it is also true that the full implementation of potential equalization, the installation of RCDs (differential machines) may not save a person if you use faulty electrical appliances.
    A woman friend had a malfunctioning hair dryer. The heater worked, but the fan did not rotate. The mistress turned it and knocked on the washing machine, but the air did not go.
    And guests are about to come.
    The hair dryer became so hot that the hostess dropped it on dry, non-washed clothes.
    The bell rang, she rushed to open.
    The hair dryer was heated, heated and set fire to the laundry.
    But after all, her socket was connected through a 10 mA diffavomat and had a grounded contact.
    My washing machine somehow failed. The wife turns on, and the machine in the shield is turned off.
    I disassembled the car and found that TEN began to be shorted to the body.
    I bought a new one, installed it. Has been working for 5 years.
    In my bathroom there are 3 sockets with grounding, a warm electric floor.
    In the evenings from 23.00 I turn on the washing machine. I don’t turn off the floor all year round.
    After washing, everyone uses a hairdryer.
    I did not make potential equalization systems - all pipes and a shower cabin are plastic. Diffavtomatov (RCD) in the shield did not put.
    But I regularly monitor the condition of sockets, hair dryers, washing machines.
    All the protective equipment indicated at the beginning of the note suggests that people will use faulty electrical appliances.
    But is it worth the risk when you can fix the first damage to the device?

     
    Comments:

    # 10 wrote: | [quote]

     
     

    In addition to all of the above, it is useful to read GOST R 50571.7.701-2013 Low-voltage electrical installations. Part 7. Requirements for special electrical installations or their locations. Section 701. Premises for bathrooms and showers.

     
    Comments:

    # 11 wrote: Yep | [quote]

     
     

    The author must pick up the comp. What nafig potential equalization of the bath and riser water?

    They listened to the author and grounded the bathroom. Felt PE at the entrance (Uncle Petya disconnected in the driveway, etc). A faulty washer (but standardly grounded) punched into the bathroom, through an in-house PE.

    "Equalized" with a pipe of cold water. Our korotun left for a neighbor who simply decided to wash his hands.

    Nakoy produce entities? If stats. the equipment is already grounded, and will an RCD catch the leak on the bath? Wanted an adventure on your w.?